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| Elmo, Snoopy and Hello Kitty leading the Magical Starlight Parade at Universal Studios Japan, Osaka |
For a moment I’m distracted from my book because I can’t help listening to their lively banter about where to go and what to eat in Japan and I start to feel a tingle of excitement in anticipation of my own experience in Japan.
From the itinerary arranged by our host, Kansai International Airport Osaka (KIX), I know that I will spend three nights in
three cities – Kobe, Kyoto and Osaka – in the Kansai region situated in southern-central
Honshu, Japan’s main island. With visits
to city sites, mountain sides and historical places as well as boat rides, the
diversity of items in the itinerary is mind-boggling but I guess our host just
wants to show us as much of Osaka as possible.
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| A ride on the rapi:t train from KIX takes us directly to Nanba Parks |
The itinerary will take us around the Kansai
region through a network of efficient trains and subways, returning to
attractions in Osaka every day. And it
was much later that I realised that the locals refer to Kansai and Kinki
interchangeably as the different words actually mean the same place!
Later I will also discover that Osaka is the birthplace of takoyaki, a ball-shaped Japanese snack
usually filled with diced octopus and the Osakans say, “Okini” instead of
“Arigato” for Thank You, in their own dialect.
I read and dozed most of the way and on arrival at KIX, the airport
which aims to be the first Muslim-friendly airport in Japan, I meet with media
representatives from Thailand, Indonesia and a Chinese Malaysian. Our tour starts with KIX’s Tourist
Information Center and Travel Desk for the convenience of arriving visitors and
as our guide, Hiro-san helped with the English translation, I learn plenty about
the Japanese as he patiently answered my curious questions.
Fun Parks
Built on a man-made island, KIX is linked to Honshu by a
4-km bridge and we board the Rapi:t express train from the station next to KIX for
a comfortable ride into Namba City. Our
first stop is Nanba Parks – nine levels of shops, restaurants and entertainment
in a mall designed in a concept that’s inspired by the Grand Canyon. Intrigued by the Nankai Hawks memorial
gallery at the level 9 Parks Garden, I’m thrilled to discover that Namba Parks
is built on the site of Osaka Stadium, the former home of the Nankai Hawks
baseball team. Incidentally in 1987, pop
stars Madonna and Michael Jackson, held their concerts in this stadium before
it was torn down!
Hiro-san said the Japanese enjoy going to amusement parks
and this accounts for various types of entertainment malls and fun parks in and
around the city. The excitement at Universal
Studios Japan (USJ) is infectious and it didn’t take long before I’m swept into
a tide of animated fun with the likes of Woody Woodpecker, the Sesame Street
characters, Snoopy and Hello Kitty. I’m
keen to see what’s unique to USJ and am delighted to discover Jaws – that
horrific shark which terrorised Amity Village, The Amazing Spiderman Ride in
New York and in San Francisco, there is Backdraft, which was used as a set in
the movie of the same name. When night
falls, we join the throng who line the streets to watch the mesmerizing Magical
Starlight Parade.
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| Glittering night view from the Umeda Sky Building |
One night after dinner, Hiro-san leads us on a walk to the
173m high Umeda Sky Building that boasts 360 degree panoramic views from its
Floating Garden. It’s rather
nerve-wracking to ride an escalator through a glass tunnel to the 39th
level – on the outside of the building – and watch a sea of city lights glittering
against a dark velvet blanket. A glass
elevator ride to the rooftop of the 40th level brings us to the Lumi
Sky Walk, so named because the circular corridor is paved with phosphorescent
stones that reflect like luminous dots by night. As I take a slow walk around to enjoy the
spectacular views, I discover the Fence of Vows and stop to watch a cute couple
pose for a photo after they have attached a lock, engraved with their names, to
the fence!
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| Amazing sight of giant spider crabs in the deep sea section of the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan |
On our final day in Osaka, we head to Tempozan Harbour
Village where I spotted a Giant Ferris Wheel and Marketplace but we only have
time for a tour of the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan and a harbour cruise on the
“Santa Maria” sightseeing ship. It’s
interesting to start our aquarium tour from the 8th level to enjoy
the exhibits from the “Ring of Fire” recreated with the natural environment
around the Pacific Ocean. The gentle
spiral path that winds downward is bordered by 10 exhibit areas from around the
world like Monterey Bay, Gulf of Panama and Antarctica. The exhibit for the Pacific Ocean marine life
spans an impressive height of three floors and is home to an enormous whale
shark and hammerhead sharks among other fish.
Walking in dim light with sea creatures swimming on either side of me, I
start to feel as if I’m also underwater!
Heritage Trail
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| Our instructor showed us how to make tempura prawn food sample! |
The route to Doguya Street is lined by interesting street food
vendors and I find it hard to follow Hiro-san’s pace as he leads us on and up a
steep flight of stairs to R&M Food Sample Art Gallery for a hands-on
experience in making fake food samples.
I used to admire attractive food replicas in the windows of Japanese
restaurants that are so realistic that I want to order it and I’m tickled that now
I’m wearing an apron and following the directions of our friendly instructor to
make my own roll of lettuce, vegetable slice and prawns in tempura wax
replicas. But unlike the gentle
movements of her delicate wrists that turns out lifelike wax food samples, the artworks
by my unpracticed hand are so chunky that I’m sure, will put diners off rather
than entice them to eat!
One of the distinct Japanese traditions is eating raw fish
and I’m thrilled to join diners at Daiki Suisan Kaitan Restaurant in Sakai City
to witness a master carver demonstrate the cutting of a Hon Maguro or bluefin tuna.
This performance includes a lively auction for the choicest parts of the
fish and even though I do not understand what they are saying in Japanese, I join
the audience in the boisterous bidding. Before
sitting down for lunch, we head to the adjacent wholesale fish market to see
how the locals shop for fresh seafood like fish, shell-fish, prawns and snow
crabs, pre-cooked seafood as well as packed cooked meals, being prepared in
live stations. As I watch one of their
staff slicing raw fish before arranging them like a pretty fan on a plate, I’m
convinced that I should adopt this Japanese eating habit because I learnt that raw
fish retains more nutrients and slows down the aging process!
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| Our streetcar driver in Sakai City! |
Another exciting experience in Sakai City is our streetcar
ride in the ancient Hankai Tramway that has been in operation since 1911. Even though the ride on the Chinchin Densha
Streetcar is short, I’m still excited with the trip on the only streetcar in
Osaka. I observe how passengers enter
through the wide door in the middle of the tram and ring a bell to signal a
stop request. Then the passengers drop
their fares into a machine next to the driver and the exit door in front opens
for them to alight. I ask Hiro-san if
the driver will mind having his photo taken and he told me to try. So when I point my camera at our driver, he
happily obliged with a bow!
As the streetcar trundled away on tracks in the middle of
the road, Hiro-san is leading us down a few small lanes to find the charming monaka shop run by Okada Yasuto, a third
generation confectioner of traditional Japanese sweets. I learn that monaka is a traditional stuffed Japanese sweet made of sweet red
bean paste coated in thin crisp wafers made from mochi or rice flour. This
confectioner creates his monaka in various interesting shapes like a Japanese
pagoda, the Sakai City traditional streetcar and a hammer-like craftsman’s tool
which is a Japanese good luck charm. I’m
also delighted to see square boxes filled with tiny colourful sweets or wagashi, traditional sweets to savour
with sips of green tea in the tea ceremony.
Shopping Spree
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| Check out the iconic Glico Man in neon lights! |
As I observe and admire the mature elegance of Japanese
women on the streets and in the trains, I’m totally inspired and ever determined
to emulate their good grooming habits not just in neat clothes but also in good
hairdressing. In the stylish Shinsaibashi
shopping area, I join locals and tourists to browse around the shops and while
I have one eye on the merchandise, the other is on the Japanese women –
admiring the elegantly dressed older ladies and being amazed at the youngsters’
wild street fashion. This is not just
Osaka’s main shopping area because by night, this site is transformed into a
tourists’ must-see destination for its dazzling neon lights from giant-size
billboards. My eyes are riveted to the
iconic Glico Man emblazoned in neon lights and fond memories of the Pocky
Japanese snacks I used to enjoy in school, come rushing back!
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| The Shiseido counter in Hankyu Umeda Dept Store |
The name, Hankyu Umeda Department Store, rings a bell not
only because it’s the first railway-terminal department store in the world but
because the Hankyu brand is a familiar name from the 1980s when Hankyu Jaya had
a few stores in Kuala Lumpur. The
original store which opened in Osaka in 1929 underwent a reconstruction over
the last seven years and reopened in 2012 with 13 exciting levels of shops,
restaurants, entertainment and event areas.
As I discover a wide range of Japanese and International brands with
entire floors devoted to Cosmetics, Ladies Shoes, Ladies Fashion, Sports,
Hobbies, Living and even Art, and two whole floors solely for Food, Grocery and
Confectionery, I can’t help thinking that this must be the Harrods of Japan!
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| Façade of the Grand Front Osaka by night |
I have a different shopping experience at the Grand Front
Osaka because besides a range of shops that stock Japanese and International
brands, the mall also houses a convention centre. Outside, it has tree-lined paths and on the
rooftop, there are landscaped gardens dotted with seats, a comfortable respite from
walking in the huge mall. Don’t be
confused if the logo for the Umekita Floor on Level 6 looks like a number “8”
because this is a cool food-court-like place to hang out with friends for food
and fun. If you pick a table along the
corridors that has a sticker on it, you can order from any of the 16
outlets. Interestingly, this place is
open until 4am!
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| A section of the Rinku Premium Outlets, Osaka |
Located just 20 minutes by shuttle
bus from KIX, Rinku Premium Outlets is the last stop in our itinerary in Osaka
so that we can shop for some of the world’s finest international fashion labels
and Japanese brands before leaving for the airport. Designed with 210 shops sprawled across two double-storey
buildings that are linked by a bridge, Rinku Premium Outlets just reminds me of
our Johor Premium Outlets but with “outdoor air-conditioning” on this wintry
evening. I’m always keen on a good deal
and without wasting a moment I plunge into checking out the product brands
listed from A (Adidas) to Z (Zegna). Time
truly flies when you are having fun and suddenly I spot Hiro-san in the
courtyard waiting patiently on a bench and as I reluctantly leave the shops, I
tell myself that this is another reason why I must make another trip to
Osaka.
Fast Facts
Osaka is the third largest city by population after Tokyo
and Yokohama and serves as a gateway to the historical city of Kyoto and Kobe,
both of which are accessible by Japan’s highly efficient rail network. Air Asia X operates 4 times weekly flights to
Kansai International Airport from the Kuala Lumpur LCCT with flights on Monday,
Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. The route
is operated on the Airbus A330-300 with a seat configuration of 12 Premium
Flatbeds and 365 Economy Seats. Visit
website: www.airasia.com or more information.
A version of this article was published in The New Straits Times, Life & Times on 9 January 2014
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