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| Laksa Johor is a Johor specialty with royal origins! |
Whether they live abroad or in
another state, I know they often long for familiar comfort food that is
uniquely Johor. Some get so desperate
that they try to replicate it in their kitchens but often end up with less than
satisfactory results.
So whenever they are
back for annual festive visits or short trips, they will definitely have an
itinerary to visit all the familiar food places for a taste of typically Johor specialties.
While many may take our local food for
granted, it is a precious heritage treasured by those who live away and do not
have easy access to a taste of home.
Each
family may have their favourite restaurants or stalls and I know some people
who swear that this or that shop serves the best-in-the-world familiar food. In any opportunity to revisit a favourite
food place, they will eat to their heart’s content and also pack takeaways and
store in deep-freeze to savour later. Our
tastes and opinions may vary but here are top picks of some Johor comfort food
that everyone enjoys.
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| Savour fried bananas [pisang goreng] the uniquely Johor way with a dark spicy sauce dip |
Mawar Cafe started as a humble little
stall in the front compound of the former Mawar building at Jalan Sungai Chat
for fried bananas, local kueh (cakes)
and hot beverages like teh tarik, a frothy
pulled tea.
A few tables set up under
open umbrellas attracted a consistent crowd who enjoyed snacking from midday
through to the evening.
Regulars do not
mind the wait for tables or the long queue for orders and takeaways because
they simply love the freshly fried bananas – particularly the king of bananas, pisang rajah – that are served the
uniquely Johor way, with a dark spicy dip sauce.
As its popularity increased, Mawar Café expanded with more comfortable premises.
Located opposite the Sri Gelam football field along Jalan Sungai Chat,
close to Dataran Johor, Mawar Cafe is open daily from 12.00noon to 6.30pm
except Public Holidays.
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| Haji Wahid's family recipe mee rebus or stewed noodles |
Loyal customers of Haji Wahid mee rebus followed him wherever his
stall moved probably because only his serving of fragrant
warm yellow noodles drenched in tasty thick gravy, garnished by ku-chai, bean sprouts, green
chilly with a slice of lime and topped by special pendaram or crispy condiment, will meet the lip-smacking mark.
This local brand of tasty noodles established
by grandfather, Wak Baidali since 1918, continues to be served by his family
members in various outlets throughout the city and beyond.
His son, Haji Wahid took over the business from
1938 and now this familiar favourite, with its closely guarded family recipe,
is served at outlets in the Plaza Angsana food-court and Zainal’s Place in
Taman Sri Tebrau as well as in the Pandan Wholesale Market and Larkin Sentral.
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| Tiga-T or Three T's is a popular dish created with cucumber (timun), bean-sprouts (taugeh) and beancurd (tahu) served at Warung Saga |
Almost everyone who visits Warung Saga is
impressed with the décor – a historical tribute to the Johor sultanate,
politicians and pop stars – displayed in a wall-to-wall collection of portraits
and photos.
Regulars are familiar with
the daily change in their breakfast menu and from 12 noon lunch is ready to be served
with favourites like freshly fried noodles and lontong kering.
One of the must-have
items must be Tiga-T or Three-T’s, a
simple dish created with deep-fried beancurd (tahu) squares – crispy outside
with smooth and soft insides – topped with sliced cucumber (timun) and
bean-sprouts (taugeh) and drizzled with a delicious dark nutty-garlicky
sauce.
Warung Saga is at No. 5, Jalan
Mahmoodiah, next to the surau on the
corner of Jalan Mahmoodiah and Jalan Yahya Awal. Open from 7am for breakfast, lunch and
dinner.
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| Laksa Johor served with a side of sambal belacan |
While laksa is usually a dish of rice vermicelli or noodles in curry
gravy, laksa Johor is created with spaghetti.
Laksa Johor is associated with the Johor royal family as legend has it
that when Sultan Abu Bakar visited Italy, he liked spaghetti bolognaise so much
that on his return, he told his chef to modify the recipe with spicy fish gravy
to go with spaghetti.
This noodle dish
was once palace food and served only at special ceremonies but now authentic
laksa Johor in rich fragrant gravy topped with a dollop of spicy sambal belacan, is available from many
outlets in JB.
Check out the varieties
of laksa Johor served at Restoran Bumbu Asli at Jalan Kolam Ayer, de’Kayu Manis
Café, Restoran Mak Teh and Olive Music Café at Nong Chik Heights also along
Jalan Kolam Ayer, Hailam Café at Taman Molek and other cafes in and around the
city.
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| Cantonese style stir-fried kway teow at Hwa Mui restaurant |
Restoran Hwa Mui holds the enviable
reputation of being the only modern café that had developed from a traditional kopitiam and have been serving a loyal
clientele since 1946.
The nostalgia of
this restaurant is rooted in its history as a preferred dining destination for
civil servants in the colonial era for a menu of Western cuisine served by
Hainanese cooks.
Besides the typical
kopitiam fare of kaya toast and
half-boiled eggs, there is also a menu of Western food as well as halal Chinese food.
Now a new generation of diners is still
enjoying a local version of chicken chop and Chinese stir-fried noodles not
only in the city’s original Hwa Mui but also at an outlet in the suburbs. Restoran Hwa Mui at No. 131 Jalan Trus, is
open daily from 8am to 6pm while Restoran Hwa Mui Sutera at No. 50 Jalan Sutera
Tanjung 8/4, Taman Sutera Utama in Skudai, is open from 7.30am to 9.30pm.
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| It Roo Cafe is reputed to serve the Best Chicken Chop in Town |
Speaking of chicken chop in Johor Baru,
It Roo Café at Jalan Dhoby proudly lays claim on serving “The Best Chicken Chop
in Town.”
There’s something about that
nostalgic charm of the décor in the tightly packed dining hall and their
familiar serving staff and food which continues to please a loyal clientele who
returns again and again for their menu of Western cuisine with popular local
favourites like spicy mee mamak and a
range of stir-fried Chinese noodles.
Almost
every diner will order chicken chop in a choice of grilled or fried chicken
with either mushroom or black pepper sauce, served with a side of coleslaw and chunks
of real fries – cut and fried from fresh potatoes the traditional English
way! The original It Roo Café is at 17,
Jalan Dhoby while their new outlet is at 18-G, Jalan Sutera Tanjung 8/4, Taman
Sutera Utama, Skudai.
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| A serving of Nasi Padang-style rice with rendang and vegetables at Qin Garden kopitiam |
For the past 20 years, a stall that
serves freshly cooked meals within a kopitiam
in the heart of the city has been pleasing diners who yearn for a taste of nasi padang.
This unique partnership works well as diners
can enjoy freshly brewed coffee, tea with kaya
toast along with a range of local favourites like nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee siam and lontong for breakfast.
By
11am, freshly cooked dishes for the nasi padang are ready for lunch.
There’s a casual and convivial atmosphere as diners
collect their portion of rice served on greaseproof paper in a basket and help
themselves at the buffet with favourite items like beef or chicken rendang, assam pedas fish, spicy mussels and vegetables like glass noodles
with tempe, and sit down to eat –
often sharing tables with strangers! Qin Garden Kopitiam at No. 12, Jalan Trus, Johor Baru is open daily from 7am to 6pm
while the Nasi Padang closes by 5pm.
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| Kacang Pool is a popular snack in Johor |
Kacang pool can be described as the Johor version
of chili con carne, a broad bean and minced beef stew that is savoured with chunks
of toasted bread.
Unlike the American version
which has a tomato-base, kacang pool has Middle Eastern influences in a recipe
which is modified with spices to meet local tastes.
Fans of kacang pool in Johor Baru are
familiar with Kacang Pool Haji which is served topped with a sunny-side-up egg,
chopped fresh onions, fresh green chillies and freshly squeezed lime.
Kacang Pool Haji located at the Larkin Food
Court, Susur 5, Jalan Tun Abdul Razak, next to the Larkin fire station opens
from 7am till late while the outlet in the Plaza Larkin Food Court, adjacent to
Larkin Sentral opens from 7.30am to 6.30pm. Their latest and largest outlet is now opened at 12, Jalan Dato Jaffar, Larkin Gardens
to serve customers from 7am to 12 midnight.
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| A dry version of beef noodles with a side of beef broth filled with slices of tender beef, tripe and tendons |
Steaming hot Hainanese beef noodles
served in beef broth or dry with a side of beefy broth is a comfort food often
referred to as “Cathay beef noodles” because the stall is situated close to
Johor Baru’s former Cathay cinema.
The
dry version is made by tossing the noodles in secret sauces and served topped
with chopped beef, salted vegetables, coriander leaves and toasted
peanuts.
This comes with a side of beefy
broth, brewed in a delicious herbal recipe, filled with slices of tender beef,
tripe and tendons. Tin & Tin (Cathay) Beef Noodle is at No. 141 & 142, Jalan Lumba Kuda, open from 7am
to 2.30pm and closed on Monday. [Non-halal]
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| Loyal fans don't mind waiting to eat own-made duck's egg wantan noodles at restaurant Ho Seng Kee |
Fans of Ho Seng Kee dry-tossed egg noodles
followed their stall when they moved from Jalan Meldrum to Century Gardens. These ultimate noodles are own-made daily
from top quality high protein flour, fresh duck and chicken eggs with no
preservatives or artificial colouring.
Serving
sizes range from medium, large and extra-large bowls of noodles topped
with slivers of char siew and a
sprinkle of spring onions with a side of wantan
soup.
Regulars are familiar with the
long queue for these popular noodles because diners often do takeaways to store
in deep-freeze, often to carry abroad.
Ho Seng Kee continues to serve a loyal clientele from their shop at
Jalan Kancil in Century Gardens, open daily from 8am except on notified days
off. [Non-halal]
A version of this article was published in The New Straits Times, Life & Times on 5 March 2015
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