Indian and
Thai food are familiar but when I read from the menu that The Spice Kitchen
also serves Indian Chinese cuisine, I’m rather puzzled.
 |
| A range of North Indian gravies and Indian Chinese dishes served at The Spice Kitchen |
My
friend, Muru Kumar, warns me not to jump to the wrong conclusion that Indian
Chinese is a fusion of Indian and Chinese food because it’s a cuisine that
exists in India. The team of chefs in The
Spice Kitchen, hand-picked from Kolkata (Calcutta), are serving an Indian
Chinese menu of dishes believed to have originated from mainly Hakka Chinese
who settled in Kolkata over a century ago.
They are also skilled in preparing traditional Indian and Thai cuisines.
For the
uninitiated the menu may look intimidating, so while Muru helped to place the
order for our group, I study its large pages. It has sections clearly marked for Chinese or
Indian Seafood, Meats and Vegetables, Tandoor as well as Rice, Bread and
Desserts and I spot items marked, “All-time-favourite” and flower icons for
Chef’s recommendations.
 |
| Chef Vinod Rai with some of his recommendations at The Spice Kitchen |
I learnt
that depending on taste, we can even ask for the degree of spiciness when the
order is placed – non spicy, mild, spicy or very spicy. I put down the menu to look around the
restaurant, I notice that the majority of diners are non-Indian. As Muru tells us about the mix of Indian
Chinese and Indian appetizers, mains and dessert he ordered, I’m privately
reminding myself to pace myself so that I have enough space to savour all this!
Indian
Chinese
When the
Chinese in India could not find the ingredients to cook their food, they
modified their recipes with Indian spices and created a cuisine now known as
Indian Chinese. Kolkata even has their
own little Chinatown and The Spice Kitchen may be the only restaurant here that
serves the unique flavours of Indian Chinese cuisine that emerged from a
Chinese community there.
 |
| Gobi Manchurian, cauliflower florest coated in a delicious batter blend |
We start
with everyone’s favourite, Gobi
Manchurian (RM14.99), cauliflower florets coated in a delicious blend of
garlic, ginger, chopped onions, green chillies, and garnished with coriander
leaves. As I sink my teeth into this
popular appetizer, I can understand why diners keep coming back for more.
This is the vegetarian version of Chicken
Manchurian (RM15.99), a dish that did not originate from Manchuria but was in
fact, created by Chinese restaurants in India!
Chef
Vinod Rai served us the appetizers and until he spoke English with a heavy
Indian accent, we thought he looked deceptively like Chinese. With more than 30 years culinary experience
in preparing Indian, Chinese (Hakka) and Indian Chinese cuisine, Chef Vinod (whose
grandmother was Chinese!) has wide working experience with restaurants in India
and Singapore before coming to JB.
 |
| Szechuan hot & sour soup |
The Chinese influence is obvious in the
menu’s list of soups like Sweet Corn Soup, Manchow (Manchurian) Soup and
Szechuan Hot & Sour Soup. I savour
Hot & Sour (RM8.99), a comforting broth filled with sliced chicken,
mushrooms and vegetables that tastes slightly tangy and peppery.
Another popular Indian Chinese appetizer is
Chicken Lollipop (RM15.99), well-marinated little drumettes that I picked up
with my fingers and chomped on in quite an unladylike way!
 |
| Chilli Eggplant is quite a zinger! |
Rice
& Breads
Mixed
Fried Rice (RM12.99), made with long-grain basmati rice, stir-fried with
chicken, seafood and egg, not only looks good but tastes good too. With each spoonful of the fragrant fried
rice, we can’t help thinking that the chef must have perfected his skills in
turning out Chinese fried rice!
From its name we know, Chili Eggplant (RM12.99)
is spicy but the crispy battered chunks
of eggplant cooked in chillie and soya sauce, tastes just right with rice. Meanwhile, Vegetable Korma (RM12.99), mixed
vegetable in a mild creamy sauce, reminds us of a lontong taste.
 |
| Chicken Tikka |
A portion
of Hydrabadi Mutton Briyani (RM24.99) comes with a side of lamb gravy and plain
raita and it’s amazing how much rice was packed into this deep serving
bowl. Even after passing it around to
share, there was still more rice left inside the bowl!
There is
no better way to eat Indian bread than with my fingers, so I rolled up my
sleeves to dig into the Garlic Naan (RM5.99).
Soaked in gravies like Pagla Lamb Bhuna (RM23.99), a popular lamb dish
in Kolkata, Palak Paneer (RM15.99), cubes of cottage cheese in rich spinach
gravy, and Chicken Butter Masala (RM17.99), Chicken Tikka morsels cooked in
rich tomato gravy, I savour the variety of flavours with the fluffy naan.
Dining
Cultures
 |
| Mango Kulfi |
One of
the pleasures of eating with fingers must be the lingering fragrance of spices
on my fingertips even after washing.
Still floating on a spice high, I settle down to enjoy the refreshing
taste of Mango Kulfi (RM9.99), Indian ice-cream
made with fresh cow’s milk, fresh mango and a hint of saffron.
It’s a pleasure to learn that The Spice
Kitchen is one of the specialty restaurants in the Dining Cultures Group which
also operates The Marco Polo Kitchen, Bob’s Kitchen and the recently opened,
Indian Kitchen in Medini Hub, Nusajaya. As
I sit back to enjoy the company, I’m delighted with my experience with Indian
Chinese cuisine and from the wide menu choices, I know there’s more quality
food and authentic cuisines to enjoy in my next visit to The Spice Kitchen!
WHERE
The Spice
Kitchen (No Pork & Lard)
Wisma S P
Setia, S3-0120 Jalan Indah 15
Taman
Bukit Indah, 81200 Johor Baru
Tel: 07 –
237 3311; Fax: 07 – 241 3158
OPENING
HOURS
Daily
11.30am to 11pm
GETTING
THERE
Drive
along the Iskandar Coastal Highway and filter left at Taman Perling to exit to
the route towards Taman Bukit Indah. At
the traffic lights before Tesco Hypermarket, turn left and turn right at the
first set of traffic lights. Turn right
again at the first set of traffic lights into Jalan Indah 15. The Spice Kitchen
in the corner ground floor unit of Wisma S P Setia, is to your left.
WHAT’S
COOKING
Unique
Indian Chinese cuisine as well as Indian and Thai cuisine
MUST TRY
Gobi
Manchurian, Chili Eggplant, Chicken Tikka, Pagla Lamb Bhuna, Hydrabadi Lamb
Briyani, Mixed Fried Rice and many more including Kulfi, Indian ice-cream!
YOU’LL
PAY
Corkage
RM30/bottle, service charge and GST applies
ATMOSPHERE
Contemporary
specialty restaurant
FACILITIES
Disabled-friendly
High
chair
Kids’
menu
No
Smoking
No Pets
Credit
card facilities
THE LOO
Common
toilets for the building, located 30 meters away
SERVICE
Attentive
English-speaking staff
OVERALL
VERDICT
Go give
it a try
A version of this was published in The New Straits Times, Life & Times on 28 Dec 2015
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