Once in a
while, I come across a café and its cuisine that’s as interesting as its chef.
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| Chef Gary "Ozzy" Hong presents a serving of Grandmama lamb pie |
I met
Chef Gary “Ozzy” Hong back in 2010 to taste his food at the GrillBar Steakhouse and I’ve
been back regularly to enjoy his culinary creations. Over the years, he earned a reputation as a
chef who is committed to consistent food quality and service and garnered many
fans. Then, Hong – a chef with a
bike-riding hobby – shared with me his ideas for a second café, its theme and
menu which is designed to welcome a wider clientele, in particular people who
share his passion for motorbikes.
Last
year, Café Racer opened in a double-storey shop with a distinct bikers’ café
identity. In the space of a few months, the décor which
features vintage bikes and scooters, expanded with a collection of helmets and
biking paraphernalia. It even has a
photo booth upstairs where guests are welcome sit on his bikes to pose for
photos!
While
there’s a cool hipster vibe about this café, Hong had installed a dumb-waiter,
an old-school contraption to transfer food from the kitchen upstairs, to serve
guests downstairs. This I believe, is a
throwback to what he’s familiar with because Hong comes from a family with a
history in operating traditional coffee-shops in the city and Johor Baru’s
first coffee-house.
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| Rock & Roll Shrimp Burrito [Foreground] with Taco Salmon Caesar Salad [Background] |
Starter
Snacks
I’m
familiar with his food and observed how Hong is
constantly innovating and creating new recipes to please the palates of
discerning diners. As his food became
more sophisticated, he still uses quality ingredients in a menu of real food
that truly satisfies. When Hong designed
the menu for Café Racer, I’m pleased that the same quality standards were
consistently applied.
I meet the
affable Hong again in a recent visit to the café while he was busy updating his
menu and we share some laughs discussing outrageous names for the new
items. While there are some changes, I’m
glad that favourites like the Sloppy Nachos Munchos and Onion Blossoms, are
still on the menu.
 |
| Sloppy Nachos Munchos |
I’m
introduced to a starter that Hong named, Rock & Roll Shrimp Burrito (RM15) made
with a tasty tortilla rolled with egg and cheese, topped with whole deep-fried
prawns, coated with green-pea batter. It’s
a simple but hearty snack.
Another
interesting starter, Taco Salmon Caesar Salad (RM18), is a giant taco filled
with peppery tasting salad rocket or arugula and slices of smoked salmon tossed
in Caesar salad sauce. After eating the
contents, I can even chew up the taco bowl but I wisely resisted so as to save
some space to sample more food.
 |
| Iron Butt Cheese Burger made with dragon fruit and rosemary bagel; [Background] charcoal and blueberry [Left] and spinach, peas and parsley bagels [Right] |
Hong
tells me their Route 66 Devil Wings (RM14) are chicken wings that may be served
hotter upon request. I reply
with, "No thanks,” as I want to try its original taste. When I see the serving, I’m amused by its
hotness tacitly illustrated by the paper which lines the bowl, with edges that appear
to be singed by flames!
Big Meals
“We bake
our own bagels and you may be served different flavours, depending on the
ingredients we have that day,” said Hong about their range of freshly-baked
bagels and I can hear the passion
in his voice as he talks about providing real food to his loyal clientele.
 |
| Racer Beef Stew comes with a slice of toast |
There is a daily supply of baked goods like
pies and bagels made in their own bakery and pastry kitchen. So don’t be surprised if diners at the same
table may even be served different bagels in flavours like charcoal and blueberry, spinach, peas
and parsley, and dragon fruit and rosemary.
Then I meet the juicy Iron Butt Cheese Burger (RM25),
made with 240gm ground beef patty, layered with a fried egg, tomato slices, arugula
sprigs, caramelized onions and a cheese slice, sandwiched between a freshly
baked bagel. The burger comes with a
side of potato wedges and a chillie dip to please the Malaysian taste for this
ubiquitous sauce!
 |
| Chunks of real meat stuffed in Grand-mama's pies! |
Fans of chicken pies they once enjoyed at Wato Snack Bar, JB’s
first air-conditioned coffee-house, can have a taste of nostalgia here. This is because Café Racer also makes a range
of Grand-mama’s pies that are stuffed with quality chunks of chicken (RM22),
beef or lamb (RM24). Hong serves these
popular pies topped with potato and green pea mash, with a side of sautéed
mushrooms.
For a taste of juicy meat, it must be
the famous Racer Beef Stew (RM35), made with sous vide prepared tender chunks
of meat, mushroom and carrots swimming in delicious gravy. It comes with a slice of toast but I
shamelessly ask for more bread to wipe up all the gravy!
Hong tries to give diners a better
dining experience by serving his Good ‘Ole Fish & Chips (RM23) made with
fillet of Pacific Dory. When I see the fish
fillet presented in a strange green colour and a cheeky upward curl, I’m
intrigued. I gingerly taste it and am
delighted to discover that the fish is coated in a tasty green pea batter!
Sweet Treats
Just as I thought I may not have any
space for dessert, Hong insists that I must have an experience of his Sizzling
Brownie (RM18). A brownie slice topped
with a scoop of ice-cream is served in a heated cast iron pan and at the table,
is drizzled with chocolate sauce for a sizzling effect. I begin suspect this sweet treat is strangely
addictive as I spoon one mouthful after another.
 |
| Drizzling sauce into a heated cast iron pan for the sizzle in the Sizzling Brownie |
The Chocolate Lava (RM18) remains a
firm favourite probably because diners favour the contrasting flavours of hot
Lava with a side of cool ice-cream. I
remember years ago when Hong showed me how to split open the lava cake to allow
its warm chocolate filling to ooze out before spooning it to twirl around some
melting ice-cream and then savour its delightful flavours.
When I sink my teeth into the Raisin
& Banana Waffle (RM16) with a side of nutty ice-cream, I made a mental note
to come back to savour this again on an empty stomach. The wedges of warm and fluffy waffles filled
with raisins and ripe bananas, eaten with a dollop of textured ice-cream, is an
entire meal by itself. It’s a smart
twist to a comfort food that I can enjoy with a warm drink of fruit and flower
tea or fragrant coffee.
Café Racer may not have an extensive
menu but a great deal of thought and attention to detail has gone into the
pleasing selection. From the constant
flow of diners into the café, it’s clear that Hong’s interesting menu is
drawing a regular clientele who not only enjoys his cuisine but also the unique
experience of dining in a biker themed café.
WHERE
Café
Racer by Grillbar (Halal-sourced ingredients)
72 Jalan
Pingai
Taman
Pelangi
80400
Johor Baru, Johor
Tel: +607
– 335 0000
OPENING
HOURS
Daily 12pm
to 12am
GETTING
THERE
Easy access
to Jalan Pingai, an adjacent road that links Jalan Sri Pelangi and Jalan Kuning
in Taman Pelangi. The café faces the
side of Giant Hypermarket in Taman Pelangi.
WHAT’S
COOKING
Good café
fare
MUST TRY
Freshly
baked pies, interesting starters, tender beef stew, burgers and desserts
YOU’LL
PAY
No service
charge but GST charges apply
ATMOSPHERE
Café with
a biker theme
FACILITIES
Disabled-friendly
Child’s high
chair
Smoking
Area
No Pets
Credit
card facilities
THE LOO
Check out
the photos (gasp!) that adorn their toilets!
SERVICE
English-speaking
staff
OVERALL
VERDICT
Go give
it a try
A version of this was published in The New Straits Times, Life & Times on 27 April 2016
brill place to go
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