Peggy Loh ~ My Johor Stories: Elegant High Tea at the Nellie

Over breakfast Andrew, my nephew, said that our next meal, after our morning at the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, would be later than usual.

Waiter introducing the items on the three-tier afternoon
High Tea set served in the Mount Nelson Hotel, Cape Town

He believed that our breakfast spread should keep us fortified for our garden tour and the outdoor exercise should work up an appetite to let us better appreciate our next meal. It sounded all good to me.

Although he gave no hints, I was ready to enjoy the day’s itinerary that he and his wife had planned for us after our refreshing walk at Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden.

Established in 1913, the Kirstenbosch estate which covers 528 hectares, preserves over 7,000 species of South Africa’s indigenous plants on the 36 hectares of cultivated garden.

We walked along gentle trails with baby Vivienne comfortably seated in her stroller but we probably covered only a fraction of this area, as we enjoyed the scenic beauty and diversity of the Cape flora that included a range of fynbos and natural forests.

The revolving door at the entrance to the lobby

The highlight of our visit (at least to me!) was a walk among the treetops on the Boomslang Tree Canopy Walkway that came with cool breezes and gorgeous views of the city skyline.

After a picnic pause by the lake to feed the baby, we were then ready to leave the botanical garden for our high tea experience at the historic Mount Nelson Hotel, where a reservation was held for us in the 3.30pm to 5.30pm slot.

This time honoured elegant experience, fondly known as High Tea at the Nellie was among the top tourist attractions in Cape Town!

[Note: Nellie = Mount Nelson Hotel.]

This historic hotel dated back to 1806, when it was advertised in The South African Gazette as Mount Nelson, a name inspired by Cape Town’s Table Mountain and Lord Horatio Nelson, who had visited the Cape at the tender ages of 15 and 18, and had died at the Battle of Trafalgar in the previous year.

The hotel had since been expanded and refurbished into one of Cape Town’s landmark colonial buildings that featured tall white pillars, an oasis of a landscaped garden complete with a trickling fountain.

Live music by the resident pianist

We were shown to our table in the elegant Tea Lounge, situated next to the open French windows that overlooked the well-manicured garden beyond.

I admired the timeless beauty in the building architecture and décor and thought that I had stepped into a time warp that whisked us into a bygone era…

Tables were set up inside the lounge and on the wide terrace, many of them already occupied by diners who were sipping tea from fine crockery or chatting in low voices while they nibbled on exquisite cookies, cakes and pastries.

Over the hum of conversation, I heard the tinkle of a piano keyboard being played live and could not resist following its sound… and soon discovered a pianist playing soothing music on a grand piano to match the mood for afternoon tea.

A view of the Reception desks

I took the opportunity to explore the lobby and shopping arcade and felt that the design of its wooden and wrought iron furniture and fittings were reminiscent of The Raffles Hotel, another colonial-style luxury hotel in Singapore.

As I took a spin to exit (to snap a photograph) and re-entered the lobby again, I thought its revolving doors was an added charm.

I smiled when I saw the sign for the Ladies restroom politely labeled, Ladies Cloakroom, in an obsolete and euphemistic label that was still being used here!

When I explored the corridors, there were interesting signs for the Garden Room and the Lord Nelson Room, but I did not open the wooden doors to peek inside, lest I interrupted any private events within.

The afternoon tea buffet spread on the table

Back at the formal lounge, the afternoon tea buffet table was like a magnet which drew me closer for a better look at the spectacular, scrumptious spread.

From this impressive spread of cakes and pastries, I saw choices of cheesecakes, chocolate cakes, macaroons, lemon meringue tarts, brownies, a range of cookies as well as South African delicacies like Milk Tarts or melktert in Afrikaans, and koesisters.

Incidentally, the koesister should not be confused with the koeksister because the koesister is a Cape Malay recipe made with a light and fluffy yeasted dough, delicately flavoured with spices like cardamom, cinnamon and dried ginger.

These freshly fried koesisters are dunked in syrup and a dusting of desiccated coconut for a delicious fragrant flavour and bite.

Already drooling from the sight of this sumptuous spread, I returned to our table where a three-tier set of sweet and savoury delicacies for our luscious and luxurious afternoon tea, was being served.

South African delicacy, koesisters,
made from a Cape Malay recipe

After the waiter introduced the various items served on the platters, he also served a basket of freshly baked scones with a side of jam, cream and butter, to our table.

From the menu, we picked our choice of tea from an extensive range that included Earl Grey Blue Flower, Oriental spice, hibiscus and mixed berries among over 40 of the finest teas from Africa and around the world.

There were also choices of coffee and hot chocolate to choose from and the best part was… unlimited servings!

As we helped ourselves to the exquisite cakes and pastries from our table and the buffet spread, I agreed that our late and leisurely meal of an afternoon high tea at the classic Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town, was certainly well worth the wait.