Revival at JB's Heritage Quarter

 

Over the long periods of lockdowns in the past two years, it kept people indoors, businesses closed and the city was silent.

 

In the heart of the city, Postcode 80000

With the gradual reopening of the economy, many businesses reopened while most restaurants still served takeaways even though dine-in was now allowed.

 

It was like a breath of fresh air to walk through the city’s Heritage Quarter to visit old friends at their businesses and to see for myself, how the old town had changed.

 

Businesses were hard-hit by the lockdowns so it was so good to see established businesses reopened and people going about their business just as their forefathers did generations ago.

 

An ancient arch still standing in one
of our city's cleaned back lanes

But now, among the distinct differences were the signposts and stickers/markers for physical distancing and of course, the quintessential presence of that QR code for scanning at every entrance.

 

These were stark reminders that we are living in the New Normal, where wearing a face mask was mandatory and that everyone was equally responsible in doing our part to maintain the health and safety in our community.

 

As I walked along Jalan Trus, I was pleased to see that the City Council had made good use of the time to improve the pavements and completed the projects in the long-neglected back lanes to make our city more walkable.  

 

In some places, construction was still in progress but I could see new pavements outside Hua Mui Restaurant, a popular coffeeshop located at the corner where Jalan Trus meets with Jalan Dhoby.

 

Please keep our pavements clean
and unobstructed for pedestrians' use

I saw that this restaurant seemed to have gone through a facelift and even its signboard looked refreshed. This was a promising sign (pun intended!) because it was an established brand that should continue to serve its loyal customers.

 

During the lockdown, I supported local businesses by ordering-in food and the traditional Chicken Chop by Hua Mui was one of the comfort foods that I enjoyed.

 

Meanwhile, Jalan Dhoby was now a one-way driving route, designed with a wide pedestrian path.

 

Staff packing my takeaway orders at
Adam's Nasi Padang in Qin Garden Kopitiam

Just as I always did, I dropped in to buy takeaway food from Adam’s Nasi Padang, a popular Malay food-stall located within Qin Garden Kopitiam.

 

This business’ namesake, Adam Soroso, was seated with friends at one of the tables in the coffeeshop and when he recognized me behind my mask, came forward to have a chat.

 

As expected, he echoed the sentiments of fellow businesses that I heard in every neighbourhood, and expressed his struggle to meet the challenges to revive and rejuvenate his business after the lockdowns and changes in the economy.

 

Still a generous portion of that familiar taste
of It Roo's famous Chicken Chop

Further along Jalan Dhoby, the traditional bakery run by the Sallahuddin family was also opened to serve regular customers.

 

Directly opposite, I saw that It Roo Café was welcoming in diners.

 

As the time was just ahead of lunch hour, I decided to pop in for a quick meal of their famous Chicken Chop before its small dining hall became too crowded with diners.

 

An old place with a new identity

With my stomach comfortably full, I wandered across to Jalan Tan Hiok Nee to visit the familiar places on this Heritage Walk.

 

Along this route, one cannot miss the dramatic sight of the Red House, recently refurbished with a fresh coat of Red paint and was incidentally, the corporate colour of Marrybrown, the business which now occupies these premises.

 

Red lanterns adorned the Heritage Walk for the Chinese New Year season and just outside Hiap Joo Bakery & Biscuit Factory, two gentlemen – calligraphy artists – had set up a table to write traditional couplets on strips of Red paper.

 

Red lanterns on the signpost

It was a Chinese tradition where poems and phrases that augur well for good fortune would be put up on the doorposts of the front entrance of homes and businesses to usher in best wishes for the new year.

 

I discreetly watched as a customer discussed what he wanted written and the calligraphy master lifted his paint brush, daubed it in black ink and started to write large Chinese characters on that Red strip of paper.

 

When I turned to meet my friends at the bakery, I thought that the sight of this traditional practice was one that illustrated hope and promise of the revival of life and business activities in the Heritage Quarter of our beloved city.

 

Keeping a tradition alive in JB

My visit to the old town was not complete without stopping to buy Hiap Joo’s famous banana cake. For me, the inimitable taste of their family recipe for this soft and fluffy cake, just hits the spot.

 

I had the privilege to get to know the Lim family, who still runs this traditional bakery, and have documented their story in my book, My Johor Stories 2: Interesting Places and Inspirational People.

 

Across the road from the bakery, I saw a new signboard for the shops opened as a modern café/restaurant and was pleased that this offered yet another dining option here.

 

While many shops in the Heritage Quarter remained closed, the Johor Baru Chinese Heritage Museum and Museum for the 24 Festive Drums were opened to welcome visitors.

 

Buy banana cake from this window

Since its opening in January 2020, the Museum for the 24 Festive Drums did not have any opportunity to interest visitors due to the nationwide lockdown in March.

 

With the gradual reopening of the economy, this proudly Johor-born tradition of dramatic drumming had the privilege to present itself at the city’s popular Mid-Valley Southkey Mall during the Chinese New Year season.

 

Recently when I was in the Mall, I saw familiar artefacts displayed at the concourse, like a sample of the Chinese drum used for this art of drumming and a collection of their souvenir books and videos.

 

A young man who was at this display, showed me their flyers and told me they were inviting people to join drumming classes held at their Drums Centre in Bandar Baru Permas Jaya.

 

Traditional Chinese drum on display
at Mid-Valley Southkey Mall

In that display, there was also a video screen that featured the co-founder of the art of the 24 Festive Drums, Tan Chai Puan, who was speaking in Mandarin (I guessed) about this unique art of drumming.

 

I am familiar with Tan because I had the privilege to feature him as an exclusive story under Portraits in my 2017 Bestseller, My Johor Stories: True Tales, Real People, Rich Heritage.

 

When I mentioned this to the young man, his eyes widened with recollection because copies of my book, opened to Tan’s story, were also displayed in the Museum of the 24 Festive Drums.

 

During this festive season, Mall shoppers had the opportunity to watch and enjoy an experience of Johor’s art of the 24 Festive Drums when their drum troop presented exciting performances at various time slots.

 

As new life was trickling back into the old town, I am confident that recovery was on its way as the city’s commercial and business sectors were being revived and more visitors were arriving to explore and experience the charm of our Heritage Quarter.

 

Note: My Johor Stories books are available from MPH bookstores nationwide and online from website: mphonline.