At NATIVE for more artisanal gastronomy

 

It was good to be back at NATIVE, a boutique restaurant, and a gorgeous retreat from the blazing sun outside.

 

A section of the interior at NATIVE

The cool ambience within was created by a blend of subdued lights and stripped-down jazzy instrumental music that featured the sound of keyboards and trumpets.

 

By its very name, I had guessed that the cuisine served in this restaurant would include ingredients that were wholesome, rustic and indigenous.

 

On my first visit to NATIVE last year, I met co-founders, Michael J and Chef Shangkar, who share a common interest in the culinary arts, particularly in creating new recipes that used old and traditional ingredients like herbs and spices.

 

A serving of Native Green

Then I discovered that traditional ingredients, native of nations like Malaysia, Indonesia, Sri Lanka and India that uniquely showcases our Asian identity, are being used in modern cooking techniques to create an interesting epicurean experience.

 

I was delighted to learn that just nine months since NATIVE opened, interest in this restaurant continued to grow through word-of-mouth and social media because diners were keen to share, not only about the fine food but also about their pleasant dining experiences.

 

Connoisseurs of good food are clearly not deterred by travel distances especially when the dining experience was better than good.

 

Pan-seared Foi Gras

It was no surprise that NATIVE had the pleasure to serve repeat customers who came from across the city and even from afar like Kuala Lumpur and Penang.

 

“When the food is good, people will not hesitate to travel for it,” said Michael who was determined to give diners what they deserved in this post-pandemic era.

 

When the menu was presented, Michael discreetly recommended two choices of meat for our main course – lamb and beef – and suggested to start with a popular salad aptly named, Native Green.

 

My preference of Foi Gras on a piece of bread

This will be followed by an entrée of pan-seared Foi Gras and Butternut Squash soup before the main course. And then to end with a delightful dessert of Cooked Cream.

 

At NATIVE, the staff would serve each course of the meal from a portable folding table, set up unobtrusively close to the table. After each course, when the dishes were cleared away, any crumbs on the placemats and table would be gently removed.

 

It was all very civilized and I appreciated how Mahendran, or Mahen in short, discreetly approached our table to do his duties, without interrupting our conversation.

 

Butternut Squash soup was served from a flask

Mahen politely enquired for our choice of drinking water, whether still or sparkling, and served it according to our picks. Throughout the meal, I was pleased to observe that our glasses of drinking water were refilled without any need to request for refills.

 

NATIVE makes their own bread rolls and the bread-of-the-day was Charcoal Sourdough. So a lightly buttered, warm slice each was served along with an interesting Carrot-Oatmeal dip.

 

As in my previous dining experience, Michael would present each course of our meal and describe the ingredients and preparation processes with such a flourish that it would set our mouths watering and our hearts eager for a taste of that dish.

 

A serving of Butternut Squash soup

Just as its name described, Native Green was a platter of artfully arranged, familiar leafy greens I recognised as Ulam Raja, Daun Selom and Daun Pegaga, rolls of ripe yellow Mango and drizzled with a refreshing Honey Cardamom Vinaigrette.

 

I know I would better appreciate the rich taste of pan-seared Foi Gras, served on Peach and Citrus Coulis with Raspberry Jam, spread on a slice of sourdough bread, so I asked and Mahen swiftly served it up.

 

Knowing the NATIVE way of tweaking recipes to use ingredients native of Malaysia, Indonesia and Sri Lanka, I anticipated a different taste in the Butternut Squash soup.

 

Pan-seared, grass-fed Rack of Lamb

To serve, a flask of warm soup was poured over a cake of Sri Lankan crabmeat, garnished by spiced coconut cream and a crispy stick of sourdough, decorated by edible flowers.

 

From the first spoonful, I tasted the subtle aroma of a blend of cinnamon, star anise and cardamom, and in the next spoonful, I added a morsel of crabmeat along with the soup.

 

After I had finished the soup, a spicy heat throbbed at the back of my throat. I soon learnt that this was derived from the cake of crabmeat which was flavoured by fresh ground pepper from Sarawak.

 

It was not uncomfortable for me while it could be for some, but this warm sensation quickly passed or I forgot about it when I saw the next dish.

 

A 250gm of grilled grain-fed Striploin,
sliced into two for sharing

This was our first main course item of pan-seared, grass-fed Rack of Lamb coated in Parmesan Pistachio Crumble served on a bed of Natural Jus and a side of Fondant Potatoes and Heirloom Tomatoes.

 

After Mahen removed our empty plates, I eagerly anticipated the next main course item which we were ready to share and savour the taste of the 250gm of grain-fed Striploin grilled over hexagon charcoal briquette, served with scallions and a side of Onion Chutney, Mardon Sea Salt and Smoked Salt.

 

While the Onion Chutney tasted naturally sweet, the two choices of salt were provided for diners to savour with the grilled meat.

 

It was up to diners to add more flavour to the juicy meat, if they so wished, because to many, the meat was so well prepared that it was, “so good, you could eat it on its own!”

 

Cooked Cream, a smooth and creamy confection

Our leisurely lunch was ending with the last course, a much-anticipated dessert of Cooked Cream.

 

I must confess that I thoroughly enjoyed the taste of this smooth and creamy confection made with French Vanilla, topped with Pandan Tamarind Compote, Frangelico and Gula Melaka, palm sugar, in a most delightful dessert.

 

Besides serving an ala carte menu, NATIVE also serves three or four-course Executive Set Lunches. For more info, visit website: http://nativerestaurant.asia/

 

NATIVE is located at No. 26, Jalan Pendekar 13, Taman Ungku Tun Aminah, 81300 Skudai, Johor. Open for lunch from 12pm to 2.30pm, and for dinner from 6pm to 9.30pm.

 

Car-parking is conveniently available in the covered carpark of the mall located opposite. Closed on Mondays. No pork or lard are used in these premises.

 

Walk-ins are welcome but to avoid disappointment, please make reservations by calling Tel: +6011 1099 1976 or email to: dine@nativerestaurant.asia