Distinct taste of Haji Wahid's mee rebus

As my manuscript was being reviewed by the editors at MPH Publishing, I would receive their queries to discuss words or phrases and reach a decision to use words that are most apt for context and clarity.

A queue lined up and waiting to be served their order of
Haji Wahid's Mee Rebus at Angsana JB Mall foodcourt 

Very often I choose to write words in Chinese dialects for the best description because such common words and colloquial phrases are used by and understood by all in our multi-racial community.

So while the editors were reviewing my manuscript for My Johor Stories 2: Interesting Places and Inspirational People, I distinctly remember one query from the editors – based in Kuala Lumpur – to explain the meaning of the Malay word, pendaram.

I used this word in my Heritage Trades story on Haji Wahid’s Mee Rebus, to describe a special crispy condiment used as a topping on their delicious stewed noodles.

In this story, I had written: “Only this fragrant plateful of warm stewed yellow noodles will do. It comes drenched in thick gravy, garnished by ku-chai vegetables, bean sprouts, chopped green chilli with a slice of lime to squeeze, and topped by a special crispy pendaram condiment.”

These savoury crisps are sprinkled on the stewed noodles as a topping, not only as a garnishing but also for a crunchy bite in sharp contrast with the soft noodles.

“What exactly is pendaram?” the editors quizzed me.

A tray of pendaram [Left] the crispy condiment that's
sprinkled on a serving of Mee Rebus Haji Wahid

I smiled when I read this question (by email) and thought, “This is a Johor thing…” and prepared my reply with an explanation to the editors, who are clearly not from Johor.

I replied: “In Johor, pendaram is a rice flour-based, deep-fried crisp popularly used as a batter to fry Pendaram Udang or flying-saucer prawns.”

I was even suggested to the editors: “After this work is over, I hope your editorial team can visit Johor and I will treat you to a taste of Mee Rebus Haji Wahid topped with his special crispy pendaram!”

Of course, the editors would have read from my manuscript that the sons, daughter and grandchildren of the legendary Haji Wahid have opened various outlets to serve their family recipe noodles, with the nearest one at Taman Sri Hartamas in Kuala Lumpur.

Md Nasir, the seventh son of Hj Wahid operates this outlet and some of his regular diners are none other than my aunties and their husbands, who also enjoy the taste of Mee Rebus Haji Wahid.

Since members of our extended family have been patronizing Hj Wahid’s stall at the former Satay Club, we have all grown fond of its tasty flavour.

So when Aunty Polly and Aunty Sylvia and their families moved to live in KL, they were thrilled to discover that there is a nearby outlet at Taman Sri Hartamas to go for a regular taste of these tasty noodles.

I say ‘regular’ because my aunties, now quite adept with using their smartphones, would snap photographs of the Mee Rebus when it’s served and send them to show me that they were enjoying Mee Rebus Haji Wahid again!

                                                                                                      

Aunty Polly and Uncle Steven at the Taman Sri Hartamas
outlet operated by Md Nasir; Note the "Tambah lagi"
pendaram on their servings of Mee Rebus Haji Wahid!

My former classmates in the Johor Baru Convent who now live in KL, told me that they too are regulars at the Sri Hartamas outlet for a satisfying taste of Mee Rebus Haji Wahid.

Speaking of pendaram, I used to call it keropok (when I didn’t know better!) because it tastes crispy and I would often ask Haji Halim, who operates the outlet at Angsana Johor Baru Mall foodcourt, to please, “Tambah lagi!” (Add more!)

Hj Halim, the sixth son of Hj Wahid, is a family friend fondly known as Bai – Punjabi for brother – probably because he wears a full beard.

He was a former National rugby player and a contemporary of my Aunty Sylvia and uncles – retired sports personalities.

Mee Rebus Haji Wahid remains a favourite food item on the menu at State and private events and Hj Halim has often been invited to cater Mee Rebus to serve at such events.

Aunty Sylvia [Right] and Uncle Mok with their plates of
mee rebus at the Taman Sri Hartamas outlet in KL

This includes our family because we used to arrange for Hj Halim to cater Mee Rebus, served from a live cooking station at our parties at home. These noodles were a hit with our guests and Mee Rebus Haji Wahid gained even more fans!

I remember “following” Hj Halim to the various locations where he used to serve Mee Rebus. From the Public Bus Terminal at Jalan Trus to the original Tepian Tebrau, a food-court close to the JB seafront, and finally to the food-court at Angsana JB Mall.

I used to watch him, moving with dexterity to serve plate after plate of mee rebus and saw how he would deftly slice up one whole hard-boiled egg for each serving.

One day in 2013 while I was placing my order for mee rebus at his outlet in Angsana, Hj Halim pointed to a frame hanging on the back wall and when I looked closer, I saw that it was an ancient knife with its blade worn ridiculously thin from use!

The ancient knife with its blade worn thin from use!

He admitted that he had no choice but to surrender this faithful old knife as it had clearly outlived its service. The blade had worn so thin from sharpening it countless times and from use for over 20 years, to slice green chillies, ku-chai and limes.

This is indeed a precious relic as the worn-out knife symbolized the hard work the family had put in to serving thousands of plates of Mee Rebus to satisfied customers.

Haji Wahid’s Mee Rebus was also among the first food stories from Johor which I shared with readers in the Travel Times, a pull-out section of the New Straits Times.

This was a heritage story worth sharing under Heritage Trades in my book. And the reason why the editors quizzed me about his pendaram while reviewing my manuscript.

. . .

I had arranged with a few heritage traders to cater some items to serve for lunch at my book launch event so that guests will not only read about them, but may also taste and experience their food.

Mee Rebus Haji Wahid was at the top of my list so I fixed an appointment with Hj Halim to discuss details for his catering and the costs involved.

Haji Wahid's family recipe mee rebus has a distinct taste

When we sat down to talk, it was reminiscent of those days when he would serve mee rebus at our home parties, but this time it was for my event at the hotel.

We also agreed to go to the hotel for a walk-through experience so that his team would comfortably set up and serve from a live cooking station there.

Then one night at about 10.30pm, my phone started ringing and I saw from the caller ID that it was Hj Halim. Curious as to why he would be calling at that hour, I quickly answered his call.

“Hello, Bai here!” I heard Hj Halim’s voice. I was gripped with a sudden apprehension, worried that something had gone wrong and…

When I asked why he was calling so late, Hj Halim chuckled. He had just packed up and was about to leave for home from Angsana. Then he went on to tell me the purpose of his call.

He went straight to the point to say that his catering of Mee Rebus Haji Wahid for my event “is on the house” meaning, presented with his best compliments!

I couldn’t believe what I heard and almost dropped my phone!

Hj Halim reiterated his generous gift to me and assured me that this was what he wanted to do.

Overwhelmed by such generosity, I still insisted on paying for his catering. After a bit of persuasion, he finally relented and said I could just pay for his team’s service and transport.

As my mind swirled with many thoughts, it took a long time for me to fall asleep. And when I finally drifted into a tired doze, it was with joy in my heart and a smile on my face.

Thanks very much Hj Halim and Mee Rebus Haji Wahid! I deeply appreciate your friendship and generous goodwill. Terima kasih!