Sydney's North and South Heads

 

The plan for that day was to take a drive to see the Sydney Heads, a series of headlands that form the two-kilometer-wide entrance to Sydney Harbour with his friend, Geradine and her daughter, Natasha.

 

Malcolm [Left] with Geradine and I
at North Head, with the entrance to
Sydney Harbour as our backdrop

Malcolm, our consummate tour guide in Sydney, was undecided as to which headland to visit – either one or both – depending on the time and weather that day.

 

The day started rather cold that morning and he reminded me to bring something warm to wear as the weather may get rather blustery out in the headlands.

 

As we headed to the city to pick up Geradine and Natasha, he told me that his preference was the North Head as it was located at the Sydney Harbour National Park near Manly, a dynamic coastal headland that offers panoramic views of the Sydney skyline, Sydney Harbour and the Pacific Ocean.

 

Our walk was in a loop on the Fairfax Track

He explained that in contrast to the North Head, which is located within a National Park, the South Head is located in a very built-up residential area.

 

After we picked Geradine and Natasha from the hotel, Malcolm decided to drive out to the North Head, about 11km distance from Sydney’s Central Business District.

 

As we drove on, vehicular traffic reduced when we left the city precincts and entered the National Park, an area known for its native heartland and diverse wildlife, a mix of natural beauty and deep historical significance.

 

The restless sea crashing against the rocky coast
at the headland of North Head

By the time we parked the car and stepped onto the Fairfax Track, a one-km return loop-walk, the sun was out in full force (again!) so we did not have to be concerned about any chilly winds.

 

Malcolm was wise not to let us take the North Head Walk as it is about a 10km loop that may take up to three hours, which he knew, will be too challenging for us.

 

So there we were, walking under the sun with many stops to take in the scenery, enjoy views of the restless sea and to capture photo mementoes.

 

Starting our walk at Gap Park in South Head

From our vantage point, we enjoyed a panoramic view of the craggy cliffs of the North and South headlands separated by the two-km wide entrance into Sydney Harbour.

 

Our morning walk under bright sunshine, cooled by balmy breezes have worked up quite an appetite so when it was time for lunch, we headed to Harbord Diggers, a luxury RSL in this region.

 

I soon learnt that, “digger” is an affectionate Australian slang term for a soldier, particularly associated with the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC). This term originated from the 1850s gold rush and gained widespread military popularity during World War One due to trench warfare. In Australia, digger is used as a respectful term for military personnel or sometimes as a synonym for “mate.”  

 

Spotted this sign posted 
at South Head

Harbord Diggers is also a community centered club that features several bars, outdoor café, restaurants, entertainment options and a spectacular Ocean Terrace with sweeping views of Freshwater Beach.

 

Aware that this is the ultimate Northern Beaches destination for dining, Malcolm insisted that we dined alfresco to experience the outdoor charm of the terrace.

 

We observed that while Geradine longed to dine in air-conditioned comfort, she was out-voted by three others (me included!) to dine alfresco. So we were seated in the shade of the breezy terrace, enjoying our lunch with sips of chilled wine and cold beer.

 

Fortified by our refreshment break, Malcolm decided that we should also visit the South Head, a destination renowned for its sheer ocean cliffs, military history and the whimsical-looking Hornby Lighthouse.

 

Malcolm doing his best to capture the best
shots for a stranger young lady at South Head

To reach the South Head, we drove through densely populated areas until we caught sight of the ocean. He stopped at the entrance to Gap Park at Watson’s Bay for us to start our walk to see the coastal escarpment on Sydney Harbour’s South Head.

 

Car parking was limited to on-street parking so Malcolm encouraged us to walk down the path of the Coastal Clifftop Walkway and emerge on the opposite end.

 

He told us to head to a nearby seaside café for refreshments while he went to retrieve the car and will meet us there.

 

We could see the city skyline and the
Harbour Bridge from South Head

We headed off at a leisurely walking pace to enjoy the picture-perfect ocean views, scenic beaches and Sydney Harbour views. The park supports a rich history that includes early fortifications, shipwreck relics and disused gun placements from past wars.

 

It is also a great spot for whale watching (during their migrating season!) from the distinctive Hornby Lighthouse.

 

As we walked along the path, that in some parts was bordered by huge rocks and boulders, we were careful to stay on the path and not risk getting a twisted ankle.

 

The waves constantly washing the
coastal escarpment of South Head

After seeing more than one of such signboards that said: “For your own safety do not climb over the fence.” In this line, the words “do not” was posted in Red colour.

 

The line below read as: “Please contact Emergency Service on 000 if you observe people on the cliff side of the fence.” [This means over and outside of the fence!]

 

Posted in Red colour, the next line said: “If you need counselling assistance or someone to talk to please contact Lifeline on 13 11 15”

 

Curious about this, I asked Malcolm and his reply was grim as he confirmed that this place was a popular spot for people who wished to commit suicide. Oh no!

 

A giant anchor, relic from an ancient ship wreck

As we walked further along, we spotted a young Asian-looking lady – who appeared to be alone – standing off the path, behind huge boulders that were facing the ocean.

 

From her gestures, she seemed to be a foreigner who was not conversant in English but I figured out that she wanted some help to take photographs of her.

 

When I asked Malcolm to oblige her request, he stepped forward to help while she posed for her shots captured between two boulders, to a backdrop of the ocean.

 

We continued our walk and when we exited the path, we walked downhill to The Watson’s Bay, a seaside café for drinks and snacks.

 

View of the bay at Bondi Beach

In the Eastern suburbs, Point Piper is recognized among the nation’s most expensive real estate so Malcolm took us for a drive to Wolseley Road, which is considered the most expensive street in the whole of Australia and one of the most expensive streets in the world.

 

To top off our day’s excursion to the Heads, Malcolm took us on a drive around nearby Bondi Beach, the site of the recent massacre. Even though the sun was almost setting, the beach and surrounding streets were still full of sun-seekers and beach-lovers.

 

Then it was back to the city to drop Geradine and Natasha at their hotel for a well-deserved rest after an exciting experience to see the North and South Heads, two headlands that stand sentinel at the entrance to Sydney Harbour. Thanks, Malcolm.

 

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