The
plan for that day was to take a drive to see the Sydney Heads, a series of
headlands that form the two-kilometer-wide entrance to Sydney Harbour with his
friend, Geradine and her daughter, Natasha.
Malcolm,
our consummate tour guide in Sydney, was undecided as to which headland to
visit – either one or both – depending on the time and weather that day.
Malcolm [Left] with Geradine and I
at North Head, with the entrance to
Sydney Harbour as our backdrop
The
day started rather cold that morning and he reminded me to bring something warm
to wear as the weather may get rather blustery out in the headlands.
As
we headed to the city to pick up Geradine and Natasha, he told me that his
preference was the North Head as it was located at the Sydney Harbour National
Park near Manly, a dynamic coastal headland that offers panoramic views of the
Sydney skyline, Sydney Harbour and the Pacific Ocean.
He
explained that in contrast to the North Head, which is located within a
National Park, the South Head is located in a very built-up residential area.
Our walk was in a loop on the Fairfax Track
After
we picked Geradine and Natasha from the hotel, Malcolm decided to drive out to
the North Head, about 11km distance from Sydney’s Central Business District.
As
we drove on, vehicular traffic reduced when we left the city precincts and
entered the National Park, an area known for its native heartland and diverse
wildlife, a mix of natural beauty and deep historical significance.
By
the time we parked the car and stepped onto the Fairfax Track, a one-km return
loop-walk, the sun was out in full force (again!) so we did not have to be
concerned about any chilly winds.
The restless sea crashing against the rocky coast
at the headland of North Head
Malcolm
was wise not to let us take the North Head Walk as it is about a 10km loop that
may take up to three hours, which he knew, will be too challenging for us.
So
there we were, walking under the sun with many stops to take in the scenery,
enjoy views of the restless sea and to capture photo mementoes.
From
our vantage point, we enjoyed a panoramic view of the craggy cliffs of the
North and South headlands separated by the two-km wide entrance into Sydney
Harbour.
Starting our walk at Gap Park in South Head
Our
morning walk under bright sunshine, cooled by balmy breezes have worked up
quite an appetite so when it was time for lunch, we headed to Harbord Diggers,
a luxury RSL in this region.
I
soon learnt that, “digger” is an affectionate Australian slang term for a
soldier, particularly associated with the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps
(ANZAC). This term originated from the 1850s gold rush and gained widespread
military popularity during World War One due to trench warfare. In Australia, digger
is used as a respectful term for military personnel or sometimes as a synonym
for “mate.”
Harbord
Diggers is also a community centered club that features several bars, outdoor
café, restaurants, entertainment options and a spectacular Ocean Terrace with
sweeping views of Freshwater Beach.
Spotted this sign posted
at South Head
Aware
that this is the ultimate Northern Beaches destination for dining, Malcolm
insisted that we dined alfresco to experience the outdoor charm of the terrace.
We
observed that while Geradine longed to dine in air-conditioned comfort, she was
out-voted by three others (me included!) to dine alfresco. So we were seated in
the shade of the breezy terrace, enjoying our lunch with sips of chilled wine
and cold beer.
Fortified
by our refreshment break, Malcolm decided that we should also visit the South
Head, a destination renowned for its sheer ocean cliffs, military history and
the whimsical-looking Hornby Lighthouse.
To
reach the South Head, we drove through densely populated areas until we caught
sight of the ocean. He stopped at the entrance to Gap Park at Watson’s Bay for
us to start our walk to see the coastal escarpment on Sydney Harbour’s South
Head.
Malcolm doing his best to capture the best
shots for a stranger young lady at South Head
Car
parking was limited to on-street parking so Malcolm encouraged us to walk down
the path of the Coastal Clifftop Walkway and emerge on the opposite end.
He
told us to head to a nearby seaside café for refreshments while he went to
retrieve the car and will meet us there.
We
headed off at a leisurely walking pace to enjoy the picture-perfect ocean
views, scenic beaches and Sydney Harbour views. The park supports a rich
history that includes early fortifications, shipwreck relics and disused gun
placements from past wars. 
We could see the city skyline and the
Harbour Bridge from South Head
It
is also a great spot for whale watching (during their migrating season!) from
the distinctive Hornby Lighthouse.
As
we walked along the path, that in some parts was bordered by huge rocks and
boulders, we were careful to stay on the path and not risk getting a twisted
ankle.
After
seeing more than one of such signboards that said: “For your own safety do not
climb over the fence.” In this line, the words “do not” was posted in Red
colour.
The waves constantly washing the
coastal escarpment of South Head
The
line below read as: “Please contact Emergency Service on 000 if you observe
people on the cliff side of the fence.” [This means over and outside of the
fence!]
Posted
in Red colour, the next line said: “If you need counselling assistance or
someone to talk to please contact Lifeline on 13 11 15”
Curious
about this, I asked Malcolm and his reply was grim as he confirmed that this
place was a popular spot for people who wished to commit suicide. Oh no!
As
we walked further along, we spotted a young Asian-looking lady – who appeared
to be alone – standing off the path, behind huge boulders that were facing the
ocean.
A giant anchor, relic from an ancient ship wreck
From
her gestures, she seemed to be a foreigner who was not conversant in English
but I figured out that she wanted some help to take photographs of her.
When
I asked Malcolm to oblige her request, he stepped forward to help while she
posed for her shots captured between two boulders, to a backdrop of the ocean.
We
continued our walk and when we exited the path, we walked downhill to The
Watson’s Bay, a seaside café for drinks and snacks.
In
the Eastern suburbs, Point Piper is recognized among the nation’s most
expensive real estate so Malcolm took us for a drive to Wolseley Road, which is
considered the most expensive street in the whole of Australia and one of the
most expensive streets in the world.
View of the bay at Bondi Beach
To
top off our day’s excursion to the Heads, Malcolm took us on a drive around
nearby Bondi Beach, the site of the recent massacre. Even though the sun was
almost setting, the beach and surrounding streets were still full of
sun-seekers and beach-lovers.
Then
it was back to the city to drop Geradine and Natasha at their hotel for a
well-deserved rest after an exciting experience to see the North and South
Heads, two headlands that stand sentinel at the entrance to Sydney Harbour.
Thanks, Malcolm.
#MyJohorStoriesTravelogue
#MyJohorStoriesFebruary2026
