On
Friday, a day before the Heritage Walk and Book Reading planned for Saturday, February
18, I was on a telephone chat with a neighbour, JN, to arrange for an
autographed copy of My Johor Stories 3: Proudly Johor, Then and Now, for
her brother who was keen to complete his collection of a trilogy of My Johor
Stories.
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Book Reading: Heritage Traders on Feb 18
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In
the course of our conversation, JN also mentioned that Chris Pocock, a friend visiting
from the UK, would like to join my Heritage Walk and Reading, and had written to
my webpage to book a place.
She
said he even bought my 2017 MPH Bestseller, My Johor Stories: True Tales,
Real People, Rich Heritage, and wanted me to autograph it. [Later I found
out that he bought my book from Y-Space, Johor Baru.]
By
this time, I already had the complete list of participants registered to join
the Walk and Reading session on February 18 and when I checked (over and over
again!) I felt awkward because his name was not there.
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With Elton Ho to draw the
winners in a FB live event
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The
list for February was very encouraging – more than double the number of
participants in the previous month – probably because the Chinese New Year
season was well behind us and from photos and videos, participants caught a
glimpse of the fun we had at our activities in January and wanted to be part of
it in February.
JN
went on to say that her friend will be turning up tomorrow morning and asked me
to share the details of our meeting point for the start of the Walk.
I
appreciated his enthusiasm and was ready to welcome him along so I told her to remind
him to bring along my book for me to autograph it for him.
As
our tropical weather may be unpredictable, I had reminded participants to wear
comfortable clothes and walking shoes, bring along a hat or cap and an umbrella
as well as their own drinking water.
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Walking along Segget Walk to
see Heritage Traders in JB
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The
next morning dawned bright and clear with rain expected in the afternoon. That
was fine because the Book Reading session was arranged comfortably indoors at
the Holiday Inn Johor Baru City Centre.
This
Heritage Walk experience would be completed by the Book Reading where I would
read portions documented in My Johor Stories books that highlighted the
Subjects that we visited/experienced in our Walk.
As
the weather grew steadily warmer, the mood was upbeat as I made my way to the
meeting point to welcome everyone on arrival.
At
the entrance of Johor Baru City Square mall, I met with our videographer, Chong
Han Sun of JB Twenty-Twenty. While waiting for the others, he shared with me
his own memories of visiting this very site with his mother when it was then
the Central Wet Market.
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An adventurous trek along the
city's heritage shortcut walkway
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As
the participants arrived, I observed that this was an eclectic group made up of
local Chinese, Malay and Eurasian – a couple, individuals as well as a family
with three young children – two Singaporeans from the Singapore Consul Office
in Johor Baru, an Indian lady from the Johor Baru International Women’s
Association and our Japanese friend, Mihoku Yui of the Japan Club in Johor.
When
we made a final headcount, I anticipated the arrival of just one more – the Englishman
(not on our list) – and was soon rewarded with the arrival of a gentleman who
approached and introduced himself as Chris Pocock.
It
was much later when I discovered that Chris had written to the blog for My
Johor Stories to express his interest to join instead of registering on the
Google form provided. (I do not read this mailbox often so I failed to see his
message!)
In
my view, however, Chris scored highly for his determination to connect with me
and to join the My Johor Stories in Downtown JB activities that day.
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Stanley Yeow at using a giant
needle on a cotton-stuffed mattress
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With
a round of introductions done and when each participant was given a sticker to
identify them for this Walk, we headed off to our first destination which entailed
a ride up the nearby elevator to Level Five and a short walk to Level Six.
I
glanced at the excited group and was delighted to see Ms Hana Badriah, a
representative from Think City Johor Baru, among them.
Meanwhile,
Tengku Tarmizi Bin Tengku Aziz of the Sultan Ismail Library who joined the
January Heritage Walk, was also on the list for February but he sent a message
to say that he was delayed and would join us at some point, later.
On
Level Six, I was pleased to introduce Mee Ho Seng Kee among the Heritage
Traders that were featured in Book Two of My Johor Stories, My Johor Stories
2: Interesting Places and Inspirational People, published in 2018.
I shared
with the group that these popular wonton noodles, made in a family recipe that
included ducks’ eggs, was an established brand now run by Elton Ho, the third-generation
operator.
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Some participants with Stanley Yeow at
Kedai Tilam Sin Keng Wah, Jalan Trus
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It
was Elton who moved their family business which originated from a push-cart and
developed it into a brand of popular noodles served in a modern mall café,
appreciated by generations of wonton noodles fans, here and abroad.
Chris,
the Englishman who is married to a Johorean wife, chipped in with a comment
that Mee Ho Seng Kee was also his wife’s favourite and they had placed an order
for takeaways when they leave for the UK, later this month.
In
the café, Elton played a short video to illustrate the process of making their
family recipe of noodles in a method that remained virtually unchanged since
his grandfather’s days.
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A queue waiting outside traditional wood-oven
bakery, Hiap Joo, at Tan Hiok Nee Heritage Walk
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Just
as he did when Book Two of My Johor Stories was published, Elton recently held
a Lucky Draw among his diners to win copies of Book Three of My Johor Stories.
The
group then witnessed as Elton did a Facebook Live event to announce the happy
winners as I drew out ten dining receipts collected inside a box, one-by-one.
The
affable Elton also generously gave all participants with a Food Voucher valued
at RM20 each to spend at Mee Ho Seng Kee (Non-Halal) or to present to their
non-Muslim friends.
Before
the group moved on to the next destination, I took the opportunity to highlight
two other heritage traders featured in my Book Two, who had moved out of the
downtown area to continue their businesses in the suburbs.
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Outside the vintage photo studio,
Johore Heng Photo Studio
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They
were familiar brands, Haji Wahid Mee Rebus, a family business that used to
serve their family recipe noodles at the Satay Club, a site opposite the former
Railway Station and Kerala Restaurant, another family business that served banana-leaf
South Indian cuisine which was formerly located along Jalan Ibrahim.
Our
group then headed across Jalan Wong Ah Fook for a brief trek along the Segget
Walk, designed along the Segget River and exited the promenade to step into an
ancient part of the city, the old shortcut that linked Jalan Wong Ah Fook to
Jalan Trus.
Walking this short path on old flagstones, worn smooth by the footsteps
of generations of pedestrians, was (at least to me!) a special experience on
one of the city’s charming heritage trails for an authentic glimpse of old
Johor.
We emerged on Jalan Trus, also known as Johor Baru’s Street of Harmony featured
in My Johor Stories: True Tales, Real People, Rich Heritage, because the places
of worship for the early community in Johor, were literally located along the
same route.
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Making their way up the flight of
stairs to Johore Heng Photo Studio
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From where we stood, the Johor Old Temple was directly opposite while
the churches were to our Right at Jalan Gereja and Jalan Gertak Merah.
To our Left were the Gudwara Sahib Sikh Temple with the Arulmigu Raja Mariamman Devasthanam, Hindu
Temple next to it while the Masjid India was at the corner where Jalan Dhoby
meets Jalan Duke.
Vehicular traffic seemed extra heavy that Saturday morning as we
carefully crossed the road junctions to reach the block of shops where the
city’s last cotton-stuffed mattress-maker, Kedai Tilam Sin Keng Wah, was
located.
I
had briefed the mattress-makers, Stanley Yeow and his father, Ah Soon, about
this visit and they were ready to demonstrate how a cotton-stuffed mattress was
secured by skillfully stitching through the thick mattress with a giant needle-pulling-thread.
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The Book Reading session at
Holiday Inn Johor Baru City Centre
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Stanley
welcomed us in and as many of us gathered around his work table to observe his
demo. We watched while Stanley did his best to answer the participants’ curious
questions.
The
group also had the opportunity to touch and squeeze samples of a cotton-stuffed
pillow and bolster, and learnt that orders could be made to their choice of
firmness.
Then
we headed to the Tan Hiok Nee Heritage Walk via Jalan Dhoby to reach the corner
where Jalan Pahang meets with Jalan Tan Hiok Nee. Here we paused at the
road-sign to acknowledge the namesake of this road.
The
three roads in this Heritage Quarter that run parallel to each other are Jalan
Tan Hiok Nee bordered by Jalan Dhoby and Jalan Ibrahim which faced the Johor
Straits.
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Reading relevant portions from
My Johor Stories books at the
Book Reading: Heritage Traders
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I
explained that the open space between by Jalan Tan Hiok Nee and Jalan Ibrahim
that was now a carpark and had container cafes there, was once part of these rows
of shophouses that had been destroyed over the years.
The
double-storey shophouse at No. 24 Jalan Ibrahim, was once occupied by a
pharmacy called Universal on the ground level while the upper level was Chow
Dispensary, a clinic where patients would consult with a Eurasian doctor named
Dr Chow (her maiden name) or Dr Comber (her married name).
I had shared in My Johor Stories: True Tales, Real
People, Rich Heritage about our connection to Han Suyin, that this medical doctor, Elizabeth Chow Kuanghu, was also a prolific
writer and novelist who wrote in French, Mandarin and English under her
pen-name, Han SuYin, and she lived in Johor Baru for about 10 years with her
husband, Leon F. Comber.
In 1955, Twentieth Century Fox made her
semi-autobiographical novel, A Many-Splendored Thing, into a
movie, Love is a Many Splendored Thing which won Oscars
for best picture, best song, best score and best costume.
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Mee Ho Seng Kee on Level Six of
Johor Baru City Square Mall
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When our group reached the traditional wood-oven bakery, Hiap Joo, its
entrance was blocked by a long, long queue of people, patiently waiting to
reach the small window to place their order for a choice of baked bread and/or
banana cake.
This overwhelming crowd was clear proof of the bakery’s popularity. And
when I squeezed in to ask for the baker, James Lim, I was told that he was not
there. (I know we had arrived later than planned and learnt he had to leave for
another appointment.)
I had (wisely!) made a prior order for banana cake so we only waited to
collect this order to distribute to each participant for them to savour and
enjoy.
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Facade of Kedai Tilam Sin Keng Wah, Jalan Trus
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Then we were off to our next and final destination in the Heritage Walk that featured another
interesting Heritage Trader,
Johore Heng Photo Studio.
While the adults were thrilled to visit a vintage photo studio, I
observed that the youngsters were exhausted by the physical exercise in our
tropical weather and had to be carried up the steep flight of ancient stairs.
I encouraged the group to appreciate the gallery of vintage photographs that
showcased Johor Baru in a bygone era and to be prepared to pose for their own
photos in the studio.
Alex Liew, who runs this photo studio with the help of his brother,
showed off their ancient wooden cameras, photo negatives used for processing of
photos and was happy to set up the lighting to capture studio shots of
individuals and groups.
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A valuable collection of vintage photographs
in the Johore Heng Photo Studio
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Meanwhile, I had prepared photo-frames to let participants pick their
choice to frame up their photos that Alex printed out for them to take home as
souvenirs.
It
was noon when I stepped out of the photo studio, at the corner where Jalan Trus
meets with Jalan Ibrahim, and walked along Jalan Ibrahim to Jalan Wong Ah Fook to
enjoy a breezy stroll on the Segget Walk to the hotel for my next activity.
After
a short break, I was on Level 10 at the Holiday Inn Johor Baru City Centre by 1.30pm
where my Book Reading session was arranged in a hall there.
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Thank you all for being part of
My Johor Stories in Downtown
JB's February Heritage Walk
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As
registered participants trickled in, I recognised the familiar faces of Mihoko, Rhys and Chris from
the Walk that morning.
I
was much encouraged by the presence of Jonathan Lai, General Manager of Holiday
Inn Johor Baru City Centre, who joined the Walk as well as this Reading with
his wife and daughter. Incidentally, his wife who was from HongKong, shared
very encouraging comments about her experience with me and My Johor Stories in
Downtown JB.
While
the Reading session was in progress, I observed that a lady had slipped in to
join the group. Later, during our interactive time together, she introduced
herself as Helen Cheng, sister of Lucy Cheng who was at our Reading session in
January.
Helen
said her sister, who have since returned to the UK, had such a refreshing time
at our Reading session in January that she insisted that Helen joined this
session in February.
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Thank you all for being part of My Johor
Stories in Downtown JB's Book Reading
session for February 2023
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Over
refreshments, participants continued to reminisce about familiar things in
Johor Baru and as we got to know each other better, discovered much in common
in our passion to preserve the soul of this beloved city we call Home.
The
Heritage Walks from 10am to 12pm in four different routes and the Book
Reading sessions from 2pm to 4.30pm are arranged in hotels in Downtown JB
that has particular relevance to the Walk and its themes.
They
are the Amari Johor Baru on January 14, the Holiday Inn Johor Baru City Centre
on February 18, with the DoubleTree by Hilton Johor Baru on March 18 and the
GBW Hotel Johor Baru on April 15.
My
Johor Stories in Downtown JB activities are planned for Saturdays in four
different themes: the Segget Waterway on January 14 and Heritage
Traders on February 18, with the next on Teochew Heritage on March
18 and Cantonese Heritage on April 15.
So let
Downtown JB come alive for you again in an exciting experience hosted by My
Johor Stories, only for two more Saturdays early this year.
Participation
in each event is by registration, priced at only RM50 per person to receive a
limited edition My Johor Stories tote bag, one book of My Johor
Stories 3: Proudly Johor, Then and Now and an exclusive My Johor Stories
souvenir bookmark.
At
the Book Reading sessions, more copies of My Johor Stories 3: Proudly Johor,
Then and Now are available from a book sale.
The
activities planned for the My Johor Stories in Downtown Johor Baru is an
initiative under the Downtown Johor Baru Grants Programme: Arts, Heritage and
Culture, a collaboration between Iskandar Regional Development Authority (IRDA)
and Think City, supported by Majlis Bandaraya Johor Baru (MBJB).
Focusing
on the heritage core of Johor Baru, the grants programme aims to support
community-based initiatives to reactivate Downtown Johor Baru. For more info,
Tel: +6016 727 5537.
Note: Photographs are courtesy of happy participants of the Heritage Walk and Book Reading session in February 2023. Thanks everyone for capturing the exciting moments!
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