On
Friday, the day before the fourth and final Heritage Walk and Book Reading
session scheduled on Saturday, April 15, under the My Johor Stories in
Downtown Johor Baru project, I was chatting with Charmayne to finalize the
list of participants when I received this message from an interested
participant:
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At Laman Tun Sri Lanang, with the
Segget River behind us
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“Just
realized some confusion. I told my Admin person to register but just found out
that she didn’t. I was in and out of meetings hence didn’t get to follow up
properly.
Let
me know if I can still make it.” And continued: “Let me know if I can still
register. Thanks and apologies for the inconvenience.”
She
seemed so keen that Charmayne and I agreed that it was a series of unfortunate
circumstances that caused this potential participant from failing to register
any earlier, so we decided to show grace and accept this last-minute
registration.
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Speaking to the participants at
the start of the Heritage Walk
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Charmayne
Naveena, fondly known as Charm, a member of Team BrandCulture PR Marketing and
Communications who was supporting me in this project, had been reading my
stories and was amused to learn about my working knowledge of Tamil.
When
I lamented, “Such a parvarm case,” in the typically Malaysian way to
substitute English words with Malay/Chinese/Tamil words or phrases to aptly describe
a situation, Charm promptly replied, “Parvarm case indeed. I will look
out for her registration.”
When
this registration was received, the participant list was bumped up to a total
of 29 people, a number way beyond our original plan. As they were all adults, we
agreed that this was still a manageable number.
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Setting out on the final Heritage
Walk on the promenade dubbed
Segget Walk, Jalan Wong Ah Fook
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I
was delighted to see that among the participants were Consul-General of
Singapore in Johor Baru, Jeevan Singh and his wife, Sima, and Director of Sales
& Marketing at Legoland Malaysia Resort, Ms Thila, with her daughter and her
daughter’s friend.
Among
the new participants were three international students from China attached to
Universiti Teknologi Malaysia (UTM) and a few familiar names whom I was happy to
welcome back as repeat participants. Mihoko Yui, however, deserves a special
mention as she joined three out of my four Heritage Walks and Reading Sessions.
Once
we tallied up the final number of participants, I assigned to Charm the task to
buy the entrance tickets for our visit to the JB Kwong Siew Heritage Gallery,
the final destination in our Heritage Walk in the theme, Cantonese Heritage.
Meanwhile,
several guests who confirmed their presence at the Book Reading session that
afternoon included my friends, Yvonne Loh, Sheila Grewal and Reetha Matthews as
well as Grace Chiam of BrandCulture.
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On Jalan Segget, near the site
of the first wet market here
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With
my Book Reading was arranged in partnership with GBW Hotel Johor Baru, the
hotel assigned two team members to join for an experience of my Heritage Walk.
The
morning of Saturday, April 15, dawned bright and warm and just as it did in the
past few days, the temperature climbed higher as the hours passed.
Our
meeting point was in Downtown JB, at the top of the Segget Walk and Jalan Wong
Ah Fook near the “I [Heart] Segget” motif, the same rendezvous landmark for the
start of my first Heritage Walk in January.
From
a distance, I spotted the tall figure of Jeevan Singh clad in sports attire and
when we greeted each other, “Good Morning!” he introduced his wife to me. In
the next few minutes, all the registered participants had arrived for the 10am
start of our Heritage Walk.
On
such a sunny Saturday morning, other groups and pedestrians were also at this
public area along the Segget Walk and through the crowd, my attention was drawn
to a lady who had stopped and was making enquiries about our group’s activity.
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Under the highway close to
Jalan Sawmill
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In
response to Charm’s queries, Vinnie Low said she just arrived from Kuala Lumpur
and was ready to explore Downtown JB when she happened to see us. She was
clearly not a registered participant but was keen to join our activities.
As
we were just about to start, I did not hesitate to extend to her our warm Johor
hospitality and graciously welcomed Vinnie to join our Heritage Walk.
On
this final Walk in the series, I was pleased to be back where I started at
Sungai Segget, the wonder waterway that once provided the main transport system
in the early development of Johor.
For
a start, I encouraged participants to use their imagination to picture how this
river was once deep enough for small boats to sail up-river from its mouth that
opened into the Johor Straits.
In
this Walk, I would share essential info on the heritage quarter known as the
former Kampong Wong Ah Fook and the Cantonese’s contribution to social,
cultural and educational development in Johor.
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The walled-up entrance/exit to
the disused underpass crossing
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In
a short walk along Jalan Segget to Jalan Sawmill, it gave me much pleasure to
share with participants, the relevant sites downtown that included established
Chinese businesses like traditional medical hall and herb shop, Thye Hoe Tong,
along with the first wet market and the first industry in Johor Baru.
Along
the route, I introduced the two established banks – OCBC and HSBC – located on
the opposite ends of the Tan Hiok Nee Heritage Walk, that had supported the
Chinese community here for generations.
As
the early Chinese immigrants worked hard to seek their fortunes, these banking
services were essential for them to transfer funds to their families in the
homeland.
On
our walk towards the edge of the coast to the Johor Straits, we had a closer
look at the sea-gate which helps to control the flow and volume of water in
Sungai Segget.
Along
this route, I had the opportunity to point out the site of the former Jalan
Tangga Duke and why the roads in this area were so named.
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The Police Central Station at the
corner of Jalan Meldrum and
Jalan Sawmill in Johor Baru
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I
pointed out that that much of the present-day coast was reclaimed land and even
though we did not have a clear view of the site for the former immigration
checkpoint into Singapore, we saw the causeway and could estimate its position
at the mouth of Sungai Segget.
This
was because before the old checkpoint was built, it was the site of the Johor
Steam Sawmill, Johor Baru’s first industry, established by Scotsman, James
Meldrum in 1860.
Then
our walk took us under the highway, now named Jalan Ismail Sultan, that was once
a smaller road formerly known as Jalan Bukit Meldrum.
As
we paused to figure out the entrance to the former immigration checkpoint into
Singapore, I drew the group’s attention to a small windowless building
structure that looked isolated and disused, situated next to the Johor Baru
Police Central Station.
When
I asked them to guess what that building was, several answers were volunteered
and I was pleased to hear a few accurate replies derived from their own
personal experience.
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Restaurant name, Onn Lok Yuen, is a
fine example of a Cantonese business in
the former Kampong Wong Ah Fook
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It
was interesting to note that this small building housed the entry/exit to the
tunnel underpass that provided a safe crossing of busy roads from the city to
the former immigration checkpoint into Singapore.
I
reminded participants that we were standing above that tunnel which opened
across the road, close to the former immigration checkpoint.
For
those who were interested, I advised them to get a view of its walled-up
entrance from Jalan Siew Nam. The clue to its purpose may be seen from a small
peeled-off sign above its walled-up entrance which spelled, TEROWO… (PEDEST…
[Partial spelling for TEROWONG in Malay for PEDESTRIAN UNDERPASS/TUNNEL.]
Our
walk continued to Jalan Sawmill, a road that preserves the legacy of Johor
Baru’s first industry, and to Jalan Meldrum, a road named after James Meldrum which
cuts across the area formerly known as Kampong Wong Ah Fook.
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Portrait of Wong Ah Fook in the
JB Kwong Siew Heritage Gallery
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The main road
through our city-centre was named after Wong Ah Fook, the
carpenter-turned-builder and successful entrepreneur, who is credited for
building landmarks such as the magnificent Istana Besar or
Grand Palace, Istana Zahariah, Balai Zahariah and
the Johor Baru Prison.
In
1892, ten lots of land here were granted to Wong Ah Fook, by Royal Command and
which earned its name as Kampong Ah Fook.
The plot spanned an
area between present-day Jalan Sawmill to the opposite end of Jalan Wong Ah
Fook near the Johor Baru City Centre Mall, on one side of the Segget River but the British later reclaimed the land up to
Jalan Station.
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In the upstairs Gallery
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As the hardworking Chinese
prospered, Kampong Wong Ah Fook became the centre for leisure and
entertainment, with clubs, restaurants, gambling houses, opium dens and
brothels – vices that invariably follow immigrants wherever they settled – and
secret society activities also flourished.
At that time,
gambling houses and opium dens were regarded as forms of investment and sources
of much needed revenue in a developing town.
For its popularity
as a destination for leisure and entertainment, Kampong Wong Ah Fook was even
dubbed the “Asian Monte Carlo” by English writer, Florence Caddy (1837 – 1923).
The three parallel
roads adjacent to Jalan Meldrum were named after Wong Ah Fook’s three oldest
sons, Siu Koon, Siu Nam and Siu Chin.
In a brief
exploration of Jalan Meldrum, we saw businesses that bore evidence of its
Cantonese origins at old restaurants named, Wong Ah Fook and Onn Lok
Yuen, simply translated from Cantonese to mean, Hall of Comfort.
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Entrance to the JB Kwong
Siew Heritage Gallery
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A recently
repainted pre-war shophouse for a restaurant named, Tempat Lama or Old
Place in Malay, had 1855 painted artistically on the side wall to
preserve its proud heritage.
Our final destination
was the JB Kwong Siew Heritage Gallery,
housed in the former Cantonese clan house at Jalan Siew Nam which occupies a
double-story shop-unit that was built in 1906 and donated by Wong Ah Fook.
If
the walls could speak, what tales it will tell because this clan house was
traditionally the transit point for early immigrants who arrived here to
receive help with job placements.
There was even a hospital upstairs for immigrants
to recuperate if they were ill and when they retired, elderly immigrants were
welcome to stay. At their demise, they were assured of a proper send-off
with a wake held in the funeral parlour in the adjacent building.
Founded in 1907, the Yok Choy School, the first Chinese school in Johor Baru, used to occupy
the upper floor of the clan house. This school, however, catered
exclusively to the Cantonese community so boys from other dialect groups could
not register.
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It took more than two people
to help dress-up our
Cantonese Opera actor
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In 1911 when the
Qing Dynasty in China was
overthrown by the revolution led by Dr Sun Yat Sen, the Chinese in JB held a
celebration procession and the outstanding performance by the Yok Choy School band caught the attention of the community leaders.
The Chinese leaders were so impressed by students
of the Yok Choy School that they started discussions on the formation of a
school that will be open to all Chinese.
In 1913, Wong Hee Coo and Luo Yu Sheng, along with
Tan Ying Siang and Tay Ah Kit, founded Foon Yew School. Wong Ah Fook was
appointed Head of the School Board with Lim Ah Siang as his deputy while Wong
Hee Coo held various important roles in the Board over 40 years.
It
was good to share about the birth of the renowned Foon Yew School which
developed from strength to strength and established itself as a reputable
educational institution here.
As
participants browsed around the Gallery for the Cantonese in JB, they saw a
wide range of artefacts that showcased the lifestyle, culture and leisure
pursuits as well as the trades of the Cantonese who settled in Johor.
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Joanne Chia nee Wong in front of
the lady's traditional costume, kwa
that belonged to her grandmother
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The
Gallery also preserved information on prominent Cantonese leaders as well as
Wong Ah Fook and his extended family, the descendants of whom may have settled
abroad while many still reside here.
I
was pleased to share about my family’s link through the nephew of Wong Ah Fook,
Wong Kwong Yam, who married two of our grandmother’s aunts, Mak Qui Tong and
Mak Pek Ngiew, the mothers of the Wong family in Johor.
I
shared that when Wong Ah Fook had established himself as a builder and contractor
in Johor, he returned to his village in China where he adopted his nephew,
Kwong Yam, the son of his only brother, Wing Kee, who had died young.
In Johor, Kwong Yam went to
a Malay school and became conversant in the language. Known
to locals as Towkay Ah Yam, he was Wong Ah Fook’s Business Manager who
successfully conducted their family business here.
Among the children of Kwong
Yam who were featured in the Gallery were his sons, Wong Peng Soon, a renowned
world-class badminton player, and Dato Wong Peng Long, the father of our
present-day Mejar Cina Dato David Wong Khong Soon.
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Charm [Left] and I with Cantonese
Opera actor, Grace Chong
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Incidentally, two
participants in our group were members of the Wong family in JB; the daughter
of Wong Peng Kow, Joanne Chia nee Wong and her daughter, Gwendoline Chia.
And when Joanne saw the kwa,
a lady’s traditional Chinese costume, displayed in the Gallery, she whipped out
her smartphone and found an old photograph of this same costume worn by her
grandmother, the wife of Wong Kwong Yam. [This costume was donated to the
Gallery as an exhibit.]
The
legacy of Cantonese culture and heritage is well preserved in Johor with the
practice of Cantonese Opera entertainment and a wide variety of Cantonese food including
popular items like dim sum and wonton noodles.
From
the Gallery we went downstairs where participants had the pleasure of a close
encounter with a Cantonese Opera actor.
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Our group with JB Kwong Siew Association
members and the Cantonese Opera actor
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Grace
Chong from the Wanita wing of the JB Kwong Siew Association was dressed in
full costume and make-up, in the role of a princess. This fun photo session
with the opera actor marked the end of our Walk in the theme, Cantonese
Heritage.
After
a short break to freshen up, I was at the GBW Hotel JB for the start of my Book
Reading session arranged in a function room on Level Six.
I
was deeply encouraged to see that most of the participants from the Walk that
morning was at this final Book Reading session along with my invited guests and
a few of my former schoolmates.
And
just as I was ready to start the Reading session, Charm told me that the file
for my visual presentation had failed to open. After numerous tries, the file
was found to be corrupted. So, this Reading session went on without any visual support.
To complete the Cantonese Heritage experience and to wrap up the My Johor Stories in Downtown Johor
Baru project,
I was pleased to present participants with Gift Vouchers for a taste of dim sum
at New Hong Kong Restaurant and wonton noodles by Mee Ho Seng Kee.
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New Hong Kong Restaurant,
established in 1954
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A short distance away from GBW Hotel JB, stands New Hong Kong
Restaurant, renowned as the first and only banquet restaurant in JB that was
established in 1954.
New Hong Kong Restaurant [Non-Halal] earned an enviable reputation for
authentic Cantonese cuisine and was the Chinese restaurant of choice to host
special occasions for generations of many families here.
It was heart-warming to see the connection of New Hong Kong Restaurant
to wonton noodles because this fine-dine restaurant had its humble beginning as
a stall for wonton noodles prepared by Mun Koo, a retired ma-jie from
the sisterhood of domestic workers.
With savings earned from her wonton noodles business, Mun Koo, the
original proprietor (my late grandmother was familiar with her!) bought the
current premises and started the restaurant that serves quality Cantonese
cuisine.
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Elton Ho is the third-generation
operator of Mee Ho Seng Kee
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My friend, Elton Ho the third-generation operator of Mee Ho Seng Kee [Non-Halal]
for wonton noodles made with duck’s eggs, confirmed that wonton noodles was
typically Cantonese and in Hong Kong, it was available 24-hours as a staple
food.
Not willing to let our Muslim participants miss out on this dim sum
dining experience, I was pleased to present Gift Vouchers for the Halal version
of quality dim sum served at Wan Li Restaurant in the Renaissance Johor Baru.
Even with the absence of a visual presentation, my fourth and final Book
Reading session went on very well as I engaged with the participants by reading
excerpts from relevant portions in My Johor Stories in a casual, fun and
interactive time together.
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At the Book Reading session in
GBW Hotel Johor Baru
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A day after the Book Reading, Yvonne Loh succinctly summarised her
thoughts and said:
“So glad I didn’t miss the final session and witnessed all the joy of
sharing among Johoreans and residents.
It was a great session and I could see that it made everyone even more
proud of where and who they are, especially when everyone was chatting together
at the end.”
While
it was a rather gruelling experience to plan, prepare, promote and execute each
Walk and Reading, it was my privilege to personally host My Johor Stories in Downtown Johor
Baru
and share the proud heritage of the JB I know and love, as documented in My
Johor Stories, for participants have their own Downtown JB experience with me.
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A casual, fun and interactive time
with participants at Reading session
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When
I informed Mohd Shahril Abd Manan of Think City Johor Baru that I had
successfully completed My Johor
Stories in Downtown Johor Baru on
April 15, he replied:
“Congrats Peggy, on the completion of
the project… will look forward to your report…”
This
was because the activities arranged
for My Johor Stories in Downtown Johor Baru was an initiative under the
Downtown Johor Baru Grants Programme: Arts, Heritage and Culture, a
collaboration between Iskandar Regional Development Authority (IRDA) and Think
City, supported by Majlis Bandaraya Johor Baru (MBJB).
Focusing on the heritage core
of Johor Baru, the grants programme aimed to support community-based
initiatives to reactivate Downtown Johor Baru.
