Craggy cliffs at Kamay Botany Bay

 

It rained ever so heavily the night before, the first time during my stay in Sydney that I saw the rain come down much like the tropical monsoons we have in Malaysia.

 

Craggy cliffs and rocky shores at
Kamay Botany Bay National Park

And then next morning, there were reports of flooding and damage in some low-lying areas in and around the city. The skies were overcast and cloudy while temperatures cooled down substantially compared to the past few weeks of scorching sunshine.

 

I was having breakfast when Malcolm told me that we will go for a drive later. With the weather forecast for cloudy skies, I was relieved that his idea was for a drive rather than for a walk.

 

Last month, when we met with his friend, Geradine and daughter, Natasha, and visited St Charbel church, he wanted to take us to the Southern shores to show us the craggy cliffs at Kamay Botany Bay National Park. However, due to time constraints, he changed the plan and brought us to the La Perouse beach instead.

 

No pets allowed!

Malcolm was determined to show me this southern part of Sydney which he thinks is raw and wild yet very scenic compared to the more densely populated Northern Beaches.

 

While La Perouse is the northern headland of Kamay Botany Bay National Park, the Kurnell area near Cronulla, is at the southern headland of this National Park, renowned for NSW’s most significant heritage sites and an ideal lookout point for whale-watching.

 

Botany Bay, specifically Kamay Botany Bay National Park, is renowned as it was where Captain James Cook first landed in Australia in 1770, marking the start of the history of modern Australia.

 

The whale migrating season for humpback whales was June and July as they migrate to warmer waters but they may also be spotted between May and October. Some whales have even come as close to 200 meters from the coast.

 

A panoramic view of Kamay Botany Bay

We were however, not in any of the whale-spotting seasons, so I was going to be content just to experience the wild and wonderful natural beauty of this site.

 

The wind was whipping around me...

So we set off for a drive in a light drizzle, heading to Cape Solander in the Kurnell suburb. Along the route, I enjoyed reading the road names and as I saw that many were similar to road names in England, Malcolm and I had a chat about it.

 

He said that in almost every main city in Australia, there were streets, roads and lanes named after royalty as in King, Queen, Prince or Princess and their names like, George, Edward and Elizabeth. We agreed that this was probably because the British who first came to Australia decided on these names which were familiar to them.

 

On the comfortable track for a walk

When we arrived at the entrance to the Park in Cape Solander, the staff in a guardhouse said a one-time car entry fee was required. Malcolm remembered that in the past, cars were allowed to enter and required to pay parking fees at designated areas but the system has now been changed.

 

When we drove in, he discovered that the Visitor Centre was closed while parts of the Park was undergoing infrastructure upgrades. We parked near the main pavilion at the lookout point, got out of the car and was instantly whipped by gusty winds.

 

Malcolm told me that this sheltered pavilion as well as much of the paved walkway, designed with several blocks of concrete benches, were new structures provided for visitors to be more comfortable while whale-watching.

 

There were several walking trails throughout the Park but overlooking the cliffs, walking tracks have been marked out for a comfortable walk along the coast.

 

The rocky ledge with an edge to a sheer
drop to the restless sea below

Signs put up at clearly visible points reminded visitors that these were unfenced cliffs and people should stick to walking on the marked walking tracks.

 

However, if recalcitrant visitors did venture onto the rocks, it made sense not to walk close to the cliff edges as the overhanging rocks may be very thin due to erosion. Any extra weight on these brittle rocks may just cause it to break.

 

A rocky ledge looked deceptively safe but over its edge was a sheer drop below to the restless sea. In the distance, we saw wild waves crashing onto the rocky sides of the cliffs.

 

As we walked along the track, the wind that whipped around us was so strong that it threatened to knock me off my feet so I walked carefully to keep my balance.

 

Malcolm captured some good videos and panoramic photos of the vista and when we reviewed the videos, we could even hear the vibrating sound of the wild winds.

 

It was almost the end of summer in Australia so there were just a few others like us who ventured out this far south to explore and experience the rugged beauty of these mighty cliffs.

 

A we-fie with the rugged coast in background

As we enjoyed the wild and rustic views, I can understand why Botany Bay is a popular film location used for productions from BBC dramas to Tamil action films, along with being the backdrop for music videos and commercials.

 

After having our fill of the panoramic views of sea, sky and soaring cliffs, we left the Park and drove on to Cronulla for a drive-through to see this charming sea-side suburb.

 

Then onward to Hurstville where we stopped for a light lunch* and a walkabout in the shops before heading back slowly through after-school traffic.

 

*Only a light lunch because in these two days, we have family dinners lined up and we should ‘keep some space’ for feasting together again. My stay in Sydney is drawing to a close and I would like to dine with the family here before I leave.

 

#MyJohorStoriesTravelogue

#MyJohorStoriesFebruary2026

 

A family soiree to remember

 

When cousin Eva and I met at our family reunion on the eve of Chinese New Year, she was delighted to discover that I should be around for a few more days and wanted to invite us over.

 

Uncle Steven giving Eva the thumbs-up
while Michael and Dexter look on

She whipped out her phone, promptly extended an invitation to the family for a barbecue at her place the following weekend and locked in the date.

 

It was still the Chinese New Year season so home visits like this was in the ‘open house’ tradition no matter what country we were in. Eva and Caro had moved into a new place and they were keen to welcome the family over to their home.

 

Cousin Gillian, who abstains from eating beef, politely reminded Eva about it and she made a note to prepare a choice of meats with special consideration for Gi.

 

Auntie Polly with Eva while she was
grilling the whole prawns

That evening, the drive over was familiar as they still lived in the same suburb but have shifted from an apartment into a cosy corner house with three floors designed with a garage and a rear courtyard.

 

It was still bright when we arrived and as we stepped indoors, the sound of cool, jazzy music wrapped us a very warm welcome. We were ushered into the charming courtyard where a dining table was arranged under the fronds of a shady tree.

 

To tell us about this tree, Caro plucked a few leaves and crushed them in her palm for its fragrance. One whiff of its aroma and we could tell it was a matured curry leaf tree.

 

Uncle Steven and Auntie Polly checking
out the beef rump bap on the rotisserie

There was also a small herb garden while potted plants lined the walls of the courtyard, creating a warm and calming green backdrop to our evening.

 

As we were the first to arrive, Caro invited us on a tour of their house. Meanwhile the others arrived and everyone moved to the courtyard where the meal would be served.

 

Drinks were offered and served, both hard and soft drinks, for everyone to enjoy with the finger food that was presented in separate courses.

 

Caro serving a platter
of grilled lamb cutlets

Eva, master-chef for the day, was working at a barbecue grill, grilling whole prawns. At the opposite end of the courtyard, a portion of juicy beef – a rump cap – was gently roasting in a rotisserie. After the prawns, tender lamb cutlets were grilled.

 

Eva disappeared into the kitchen for a while and when she emerged, she served a platter of fried chicken wings – specially for Gillian – but we were also welcome to have a taste.

 

The chicken wings were not deep-fried but stir-fried in a special secret recipe with a hint of zing which we all agreed, was finger-lickin’ good.

 

The sun was slowly setting so the small light bulbs strung across the tree in the courtyard while lit up. Candles were lighted and placed inside woven baskets, fastened to the tree. All this worked together to cast a golden glow on the courtyard.

 

Eva and stir-fried
chicken wings in her secret recipe

Eva went to check on the beef and decided it should be rested before being sliced and served as the main course.

 

Then vegetables like broccolini and colourful small capsicum were grilled together before the corn ribs were grilled. Meanwhile a portion of coleslaw was chilled, ready to be served. All this was happening ‘live’ as we enjoyed the leisurely meal in casual comfort.

 

Conversation flowed freely, with Uncle Steven and Malcolm taking turns to discuss topics of interest. After the small plates were cleared away, dinner plates and cutlery were brought to the table.

 

Suddenly Alex called out to me, said that her aunt was carving the beef and asked if I wanted to capture a photo of the action?

 

Broccolini and colourful
capsicum on the grill

So there I was in the kitchen to watch as Eva skillfully slice the Medium roasted rump cap into juicy slices. In the courtyard, dinner plates were laid out and Caro served portions of vegetables, corn ribs and coleslaw on each plate.

 

When Eva presented the platter of sliced, mouthwatering beef to the table, there was a collective exclamation of, “Wow!”

 

Earlier on, she had placed on the table, two choices of specialized compound butter as well as two types of creamy horseradish sauce for us to melt on the meat for added flavour.

 

Everyone was invited to help themselves to their pick of a piece or two of beef, whether big or small, and top it with a choice of sauce that meets with their taste.

 

Master-chef Eva in action!

No more talking while our mouths got busy savouring the food as jazz music spilled out into the courtyard and enveloped us with its cool vibe.

 

When we put down our forks and knives, everyone agreed that Eva certainly outdid herself by presenting us with such a satisfying spread. But it was not over yet. Wait!

 

Dessert was coming!

 

In the kitchen, Eva was putting the final touches to her homemade Banoffee pie.

 

When we saw her dessert pie, once again, there was a collective sigh of appreciation. She divided and served it, making sure everyone had a portion to enjoy a sweet ending that tasted of a classic biscuit base, oozy caramel, slices of fresh banana, cream and chocolate. Mmm… Simply irresistible!

 

Homemade Banoffee pie; next to it pink
jelly in grandmother's recipe made by Auntie

Throughout the evening, Eva and Caro were such good hosts who made sure all of us had our drinks refreshed and had enough to eat.

 

After we had polished off our dessert plates, Eva came around with a small basket of empty glasses – shot glasses and wine glasses – and asked us to pick one glass for ourselves.

 

I did not see when she had laid out a wooden cask on a nearby table, ready to serve us an after-dinner drink of aged port. Then one-by-one, she filled our glasses and served us her treasured old port for us to sip slowly to savour its complex flavours.

 

A family soiree in Sydney
to remember

As it was still Chinese New Year season, Auntie Polly presented hong pau [Cantonese for Red Packets filled with lai see or fortune money!] to the two present who were eligible to receive: Ben and I.

 

We were still lingering over our sweet digestifs when we felt the first raindrops. At first, we chose to ignore it but as more raindrops came down, we had to retreat into the house. And then it was time to leave.

 

Thank you, Eva and Caro for your warm hospitality at a memorable family soiree. Happy Chinese New Year and Congratulations on your New Home!

 

#MyJohorStoriesTravelogue

#MyJohorStoriesFebruary2026

A walk plus a climb at The Rocks

 

From Cockatoo Island, the ferry ride was about 20 minutes to Circular Quay. On our arrival at Wharf 5, Malcolm casually told Ben and I to be ready to climb steps, much like how we should do at Batu Caves [The word Batu in Malay, means stone or rock.]

 

A section of popular dining spots at The Rocks

My mind flashed to a vision of that massive staircase of 272 steep steps from the base to the temple cave, a challenging climb for anyone due to the humidity in weather.

 

I cannot disbelieve what Malcolm threatened us with but as humidity that morning was soaring, it was rather challenging to be walking outdoors, let alone climb.

 

As it was a weekend, he was pleased that the Rocks Market was open so that I may have an experience of another one of Sydney’s tourist attractions. We saw a bit of it (he said we will browse later) as we followed his lead to where he had in mind for lunch, at one of his favourite watering holes in the city.

 

Archway to a steep flight of stairs!

Our lunch destination was The Glenmore Hotel on Cumberland Street. It was about a 1.4km walk uphill from The Rocks, through the stone archway and up the Argyle Stairs, a steep climb of more steps before we reached Cumberland Street.

 

Many people were waiting in the alfresco section as the pub was not yet open for lunch so Malcolm decided that we should take a walk on the Sydney Harbour Bridge, and led us across the road to the bottom of the Bridge Stairs.

 

I let the guys start going up
the Bridge Stairs

When I looked up at that wide flight of stairs, I let the father and son start the climb while I paused to catch my breath. Finally, I was at the (bottom of the) iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge.

 

I know of adventurous people who have done the Harbour Bridge Climb (for a fee!) but now I was about to embark on my own climb – up the stairs – to reach the Bridge.

 

Now cousin Malcolm, who has earned the dubious reputation as a bargain-hunter and budget-buyer, is one who shamelessly seeks out the best buys and who even does not mind if that rump of meat had passed its ‘Best Before’ date.

 

When I made it to the top of the stairs and joined the guys at road level, on the walkway which leads to the bridge, Malcolm welcomed me to what he dubbed the ‘Bridge Walk’ and added, “the budget version!”

 

At the road level pathway to the Bridge

He was of the opinion that we will enjoy the same beautiful view of Sydney from the Bridge on road level, similar to that from the Bridge Climb. He said the only difference was that their view was from a higher elevation and that it costs a fee!

 

He said locals (like him!) enjoy the views free-of-charge whenever they walked across the Bridge. So there we were, scorched by the almost-midday sun, on the walkway towards the first pylon of the Harbor Bridge.

 

Father and son, Malcolm and Benjamin,
on the Bridge Walk with me

No, I am no Puteri Lilin (English for: Candle Princess, a phrase in Malay used to describe women who avoided the sun’s rays) but I was grateful for my hat and sunglasses because I was wilting and almost melting away in the scorching heat.

 

Even though the wind was blowing, the overhead sun was very, very hot. After capturing a few photo mementoes, we made an about turn and walked back to The Glenmore Hotel.

 

To reach his favourite pub café, The Glenmore – At the Rooftop, there was yet another climb. This time on narrow carpeted stairs, up three levels to the rooftop.

 

View of the iconic Sydney Opera House
from our Bridge Walk

By then, I was sweating buckets. It was so good to sit down and enjoy refreshing drinks before looking at the menu to place our lunch orders.

 

I was not counting but we probably covered some 272 steps plus stairs, pretty much like climbing the steps of the Batu Caves!

 

This pub café, according to Malcolm, was a favourite chillout spot for him. It was less noisy before but now that it had gained popularity, the music was loud and the crowd was even louder.

 

Memorial plaque at the first pylon on the Bridge

Refreshed, rested and revived after our light lunch, we made our way down to The Rocks to explore and experience the Rocks Market.

 

While walking down to Cambridge Street we paused to look at heritage buildings like the charming Susannah Place (since 1844) that still maintained its hewn rocks steps at the rear of the building.

 

As I explored the Rocks Market, I saw that it was no ordinary Day Market but more of a tourist destination for designer fashion, handicrafts and artisanal products.

 

Heading to Glenmore Hotel for lunch 
at the Rooftop pub cafe 

I do so enjoy markets so I took my time to browse around to enjoy the touristy vibe as merchants promoted their products and shoppers chose their souvenirs.

 

A large section of the market was sheltered under tents while the open section close to the underside of the Bridge was for stalls that served food and beverage. It was a well curated market, especially for the food, where a range of cuisine was available.

 

I watched as a group of Asian women sipped on coloured drinks, exchanging the tumblers among them in an attempt to figure out what was the flavour of each coloured drink.

 

A browse at the Rocks Markets

The aroma of sizzling barbecued meat filled the air from the stall that boasted of Authentic Australian BBQ, illustrated by drawings of creatures that resembled a cross among lamb, emu, crocodile, chicken and kangaroo, for an exotic choice of meat.

 

For the hungry but less adventurous palates, they may pick from Aussie, Columbian, Italian, Indian, Vietnamese, Chinese or Korean street food.

 

Tables and barstools were arranged under the Bridge (which used to be a carpark) for people to chillout over drinks and snacks, while enjoying the shade, the breeze and views of Sydney Harbour.

 

Malcolm was determined to show me, Sydney’s Oldest Pub, so he led us to the Fortune of War on George Street, within Sydney’s historic birthplace, The Rocks.

 

See [Bottom Right] their wall cladding that 
resembled bathroom tiles

Before billboards and promo posters were put up, the façade of this old pub was visible. Now only a small section can be seen: their wall cladding of square, smooth and shiny green tiles, much like bathroom tiles.

 

Inside, a poster provided relevant info which read like this:

 

“In the last century, there were six pubs in this block, catering for local people and sailors and passengers from the sailing ships moored in Sydney Cove. The only one still licensed is the Fortune of War.

 

Our walk-plus-climb was around
this area at The Rocks

The old pub was demolished in 1920 and the existing Fortune was built in 1922.”

 

Reputed as an institution, this destination continues to attract visitors and is a must-visit place for heritage buffs at The Rocks.

 

Tired but elated, I was more than pleased that I was able to match the father and son in terms of ability in our walk-plus-climb at The Rocks which started at Cockatoo Island this morning.

 

As we headed back to Wharf 5 to catch a ferry to return to Cabarita, Malcolm said we should sit inside for air-conditioned comfort. Thanks guys, for a fun and memorable outing together.

 

#MyJohorStoriesTravelogue

#MyJohorStoriesFebruary2026

Morning walk on Cockatoo Island

 

That morning, just as I was getting my breakfast on the table, Malcolm told me to get ready soon as we were going to catch a ferry to Cockatoo Island in about 30 minutes.

I was escorted by father and son on this
morning walk on Cockatoo Island

I looked at the time and there was barely enough time for me to drink my coffee and swallow my slice of buttered banana bread.

 

He was checking online for the ferry schedule and thought that we should aim to get to the wharf at Cabarita for the next ferry, if not then the next one. Whew!

 

I recalled a few weeks ago, while we were passing on a ferry into the city heading to Circular Quay, Malcolm pointed out Cockatoo Island to me. So in record time, we were out the door and into the car, heading to the parking lot at Cabarita.

 

A section of the Powerhouse;
See Malcolm dwarfed next to it

His son, Benjamin, was probably used to Malcolm’s very short notice to get up and go, so I was pleased that Ben was joining us on this weekend outing that will start with a morning walk on Cockatoo Island, followed by a trip to the city for lunch.

 

Malcolm reminded me to bring along a hat and echoed the same to Ben because the weather was turning out to be a blazing hot day.

 

While waiting for the ferry, I observed rowing teams undergoing training in the river. This was because I heard the muffled voice of their trainer yelling instructions to the crew as their racing boat glided across the water.

 

It was interesting that the Paramatta River and the many rivers that crisscross New South Wales support a wide range of sea sports from sailing to other water sports for fitness, recreation and competition.

 

The buildings are built into the sandstone

We boarded our ferry which brought us smoothly to Cockatoo Island in about 20 minutes. Malcolm, who is familiar with this destination, directed us to the Visitor Centre where I picked up a flyer with relevant info as well as a useful map.

 

From the information provided, I learnt that this island was known to First Nations people as Wareamah with a rich layered history as a First Nations meeting place.

 

Cockatoo Island has served multiple purposes including a convict prison, a reformatory and industrial school for girls (1871 – 1911) and a prominent shipyard that supported the Allied powers during both the World Wars.

 

A map on the flyer to guide us
on our morning walk

It is the largest island in Sydney Harbour, an 18-hectare UNESCO World Heritage-listed site known as a convict penal establishment (1939 – 1869) and a major industrial shipyard (1857 – 1992).

 

We walked pass the camp ground where tents were lined up for the adventurous to rent and relax under the stars. It was good to see many tents occupied by families with young children for the kids to have an outdoor experience, staying in a tent.

 

The remnant structures in the Convict Precinct on this island offers a window into a period when people were exiled to Australia and put to work on the colony’s building projects.

 

As I walked through the hollow heritage buildings, I wondered – “if these walls could speak, what tales they would tell!”

 

An opening into a tunnel
built into the sandstone hills

In Johor Bahru, our historic prison built in 1883, has been repurposed by young people as a hip destination into a playground for art, culture and heritage. When this prison was defunct, it was opened briefly as a museum and I documented my visit experience in a heritage story in, A peek into the Johor Bahru jail, published in my book, My Johor Stories 3: Proudly Johor, Then and Now.

 

My most unforgettable experience in visiting a former penal establishment must be to the infamous (now demolished) Pudu Jail in Kuala Lumpur that was built in phases by the British government in 1891 and 1895.

 

Horror stories abound about Pudu Jail as it was considered one of the nation’s most haunted sites, built on a cemetery and the site of countless deaths due to a cholera outbreak in 1895, the Japanese Occupation and many executions.

 

"...if these walls could speak..."

[This jail was officially closed in 1996 and was opened as a prison museum briefly in 1997. Demolition began in 2009 and by 2012, only its main gate and a small part of its wall remain as a legacy of this infamous jail.]

 

With the morning sunshine beating down on us, we continued with our round-the-island walk to explore the old buildings and dockyards, lingering at various spots to read the information plaques.

 

Surrounded by deep water, Cockatoo Island – then a convict jail – was deemed ideal for maritime activities and that the island’s convicts could be employed in the construction of a dry dock.

Construction of the dry dock commenced in 1848 and was not completed until 1857 as the convict labourers were unruly and poorly treated. In 1854, midway through construction, it was christened Fitzroy Dock.

 

Outer wall of the Steam Workshop

Construction began on a second dock in 1882 to enable the island to accommodate larger naval and merchant ships. Christened Sutherland Dock and completed in 1889, the shipbuilding and repair activities on Cockatoo Island grew steadily from then on.

 

With this part of our morning walk done, Malcolm – who was checking the ferry schedule – let out a yell and said, “Five minutes!” and walked briskly towards the wharf.

 

Ben and I took off after him as he continued the countdown, “Four,” followed by, “Three,” meaning the ferry was about to arrive, so let’s hurry up!

 

Safely on board the ferry, we headed to Circular Quay to continue our morning walk in the city. [Note: It was not just a walk but more like a climb!]

 

#MyJohorStoriesTravelogue

#MyJohorStoriesFebruary2026