At the tender age of 14, Koh Chin Hong had already
decided that he wanted to be a chef.
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| At the entrance to Initial Modern European Cuisine |
He probably made this decision while growing up on the
good food that his mother dished out for the family and she inevitably was the
inspiration that spurred him on to pursue a career in culinary arts.
Now the Head Chef at Initial, Chef Koh shares
with me about his exciting culinary journey that started soon after he
completed High School in Yong Peng, Johor.
His dream soon turned into reality when he completed a
year in Japanese language studies and two years with a culinary school in
Tokyo, Japan, where he mastered the art of Kaiseki, the traditional
multi-course Japanese dinner.
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| Chef Koh Chin Hong in action, seen through the open kitchen |
Armed with the art of Kaiseki, Koh had the opportunity
to meld this traditional Asian dining art with the art of Western haute cuisine
when he worked with a Michelin-star restaurant that served Japanese-French
cuisine in the Ritz Carlton.
An opportunity to work with a fine-dine restaurant in
Sentosa Island, Singapore, brought him closer to home but the desire to explore
the world to discover more cuisine took him to New Zealand where he worked with
a resort popular with royalty in Huka, located close to scenic Lake Taupo.
Then it was a-dream-come-true experience for an
aspiring chef like Koh when he was accepted to work with one of the world’s
best restaurants, Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark.
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| The Prawn appetizer with the crispy stuffed prawn heads |
The sum of experiences with renowned chefs and
restaurants in such a short span of time drove Koh to seriously consider doing
something on his own.
Over the years, the crazy work hours (very often from
6am to 2am!) under the instruction of celebrated/distinguished/notorious chefs,
has shaped a sharp discipline in Koh and he’s more than ready to lead his own
culinary team.
With the support of his family, Koh returned to Johor full
of fresh ideas to open Initial to serve his culinary creations in Modern
European Cuisine with a hint of Japanese.
Koh understands that everything has a beginning and
Initial is where he aims to take discerning diners – who appreciate quality food
prepared with the best ingredients – on a gastronomic adventure.
“The best ingredients make the best food!” declares
Koh emphatically as he tells me about his daily routine in seeking different
fish and vegetables, fresh from the sea and local farms, so that diners will be
served with only the best.
Koh is pleased that Johor now has sources and
suppliers for the products he has in mind because he’s very particular about
the fresh produce, meat and poultry used in his menu.
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| Adding Miso Dashi to the Daikon appetizer |
As far as possible, fresh products are sourced from
Johor so diners may be served the ‘Catch of the Day’ or the ‘Veg of the Day’
depending on seasonal vegetables or premium fish (not farmed!) from the sea.
I can see how Koh and his team at Initial are working
hard to distinguish themselves as dedicated chefs who take pride in creating
food items from scratch, using the best (wherever possible!) local ingredients.
Then it’s time for a taste of Koh’s recommended
Tasting Menu.
While he heads into the kitchen to prepare our meal, baguette
slices – baked in-house – are served with a side of seaweed kombu spread for an
interesting first taste of Japanese influence in his Modern European cuisine.
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| The Egg appetizer comes with chunks of Pineapple Chicken |
The prawn appetizer comprises two headless large meaty
prawns on a bed of tomato salsa, drizzled with lime dressing and garnished with
a flake of charcoal tuile (baked wafer).
“Eh? Where are the heads?” this pops into my mind as
I’m looking for them but in vain.
As if to answer my question, the staff serves up on a
separate plate, the two stuffed crispy prawn heads.
The suggestion is to put the entire prawn head into my
mouth and crunch it up…
Very carefully (to avoid any harm to the tender
insides of my mouth!) I do so and am pleasantly surprised to taste the burst of
curry-flavoured concoction with hints of toasted dried prawns in the creamy stuffing.
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| The Pork Belly main course dish |
Daikon or white radish is another recommendation,
garnished with eryngii (mushroom), charred baby corn sticks, aburaage (Japanese
fried tofu) and topped with a sprig of dehydrated enoki (mushroom).
At the table, a small jug of miso dashi (rich soup
stock) is added to this serving.
The Egg appetizer is made with an Onsen egg, chunks of
Pineapple Chicken, shimeji (mushroom), snow peas and finally, genmaicha
(roasted rice) broth is poured in.
Curious about the Pineapple Chicken, I ask Koh if I
heard him correctly and he clarified that this specialty chicken, was fed on
pineapple – and not flavoured with pineapple – for a unique tender texture.
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| Sea Bass is featured in this Fish main course dish |
With my curiosity and appetite suitably piqued, I’m
ready for the main course items.
Koh explains that the Pork Belly dish is a new
addition to the menu and this serving comes with a generous portion of pork complete
with crispy skin on a bed of cabbage puree with a side of charred cubes of
cabbage, minced pork belly wrapped in Chinese cabbage and drizzled with a
savoury sauce.
When I sink my teeth into the pork, I can understand
why Koh is determined to serve quality meat because it tastes so good when its free
from any gamey scent.
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| An Eye Fillet in this Beef dish |
The Fish dish features fillets of Sea Bass with a side
of kale (green leafy vegetables), semi-dried tomatoes, water chestnut and drizzled
with saffron beurre (butter sauce).
The Sea Bass happens to be the Catch of the Day and
Koh explains that it may be substituted by Snapper or Garoupa on other days.
The Beef dish is made with Eye Fillet (you can ask for
Wagyu!) on a bed of mushroom puree, garnished with marrow crumbs, pickled
Japanese artichoke and wasabi lebneh (Greek yoghurt) with a rectangle of
layered-potato gratin.
At the table, house wine jus is drizzled on its side
before I enjoy the taste of tender beef.
Initial also serves Afternoon Tea and when I spy the
freshly-baked cakes and pastries, I cannot resist having a taste of the apple tart.
Finally, when I compliment the chef for a delightful dining
experience, Koh is all smiles because such good compliments are the desired
reward for every good chef.
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| A slice of Apple Tart - loaded with apple slices! |
I’m pleased to know that Koh is catering to private
events with special menus tailored to the guests’ requirements because Initial
is certainly a dining destination for any occasion.
Initial Modern European Cuisine [Non-Halal] is at No.
9-G, Jalan Molek 3/20, Taman Molek, 81100 Johor Baru, Johor.
Open for Dinner from 6pm to 11pm; Afternoon Tea from
1pm to 5pm.
Closed on Monday.
The premises at Initial comfortably seats 30 guests.
To avoid disappointment, reservations are recommended.
Tel: +6016 247 0977 or email: initialcuisine@gmail.com
For daily updates, visit Facebook.com/initialcuisine/
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