I’m
at Muzium Tokoh Johor, within the
historic Datuk Jaafar Building at Bukit Senyum to attend an event organized by Yayasan Warisan Johor (YWJ) or Johor Heritage
Foundation.
Dubbed,
Bicarawara Tokoh – Lada Hitam dan Gambir,
this is a talk by guest speakers on Johor’s pepper and gambier heritage. One of
the speakers is cultural activist, Tan Chai Puan.
In
the courtyard, I meet history teacher Florence and her Sixth Form students from
SMK Dato Jaafar. We recently met at their school’s Book Talk where I introduced
my book to their student leaders.
She
said she’s here to learn more about this proud heritage and will compare it
against what she read in, Our pepper and
gambier heritage, from my book, My
Johor Stories: True Tales, Real People, Rich Heritage!
At
the registration desk in the event hall, the gentleman asks me, “Dari muzium mana?” [From which museum?]
JB Tiong Hua Association President, Datuk Seri Tey Kim Chai [2nd from Left] showing Yayasan Warisan Johor Deputy Director, DVS Kamaruddin Ab Razak and others, tiny seeds of the gambier plant. |
A
glance at the lists reveals that besides students, attendees are
representatives from various museums, academic and government agencies. As I’m
from “None of the above” categories, I proudly register myself as, “My Johor
Stories.”
I
feel a tremor of excitement as this is a significant event where I’m witnessing
the joint participation by representatives of YWJ and the Johor Baru Tiong Hua
Association – probably for the very first time – to discuss a shared heritage
in pepper and gambier.
Friends
from the Johor Baru Chinese Heritage Museum have set up an exhibit to display
implements used in the gambier processing industry, including samples of
gambier and its products, with some photographs of typical pepper and gambier
farms in Indonesia.
Another
exhibit of ancient documents, handwritten in Jawi and typewritten in English on
old-fashioned manual typewriters, are also on display. These, I later learn,
are from a collection provided by guest speaker, UTM Associate Professor Dr Hj
Kassim Thukiman.
The
guests-of-honour representing YWJ, Deputy Director, DVS Kamaruddin Ab Razak and
JB Tiong Hua Association President, Datuk Seri Tey Kim Chai, aptly opened the
event with a symbolic planting of gambier plants.
The
moderator, Md Zin Idros, gives Tan a glowing introduction before he was invited
to give his presentation entitled, The
Chinese Story of Gambier and Pepper that traced the Chinese’s role in Johor’s
development into the world’s largest producer of gambier from the 1830s to
1850s.
Since
2014, the JB Chinese Heritage Museum has carried out extensive research into
the pepper and gambier heritage in Johor and their findings are preserved in an exhibition called, Sharing of Hardships.
Tan
welcomes visitors to this exhibit which provides further insight into the
history of Chinese-Malay relationships that undergirds the strong support
between the Johor sultanate and the Chinese community today.
He
reiterates that when Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim invited the Chinese to relocate
to Johor, farmers who arrived, obtained a permit known as surat sungai from the ruler to cultivate and govern a plot of land
in the Kangchu system.
The
earliest records showed that permits were issued to two kangchu or River Masters, Kapitan Seah Tai Heng and Seah Ling Chai
of the Ngee Heng kongsi, a Teochew
society, to develop plantations on the banks of Sungai Skudai.
To
preserve the gambier legacy, the JB Tiong Hua Association revived the planting
of gambier in Johor for education purposes.
They established the Gambier
Planting and Education Association and carried out a series of gambier planting
projects in Chinese schools in 2017. [The
Iskandarian, Aug 2017, Gambier planting revival in Johor]
Tan Chai Puan shared a rare document that recorded a conversation between China's first Ambassador to the UK, Guo Songtao [Left] and Maharaja Abu Bakar [Right] in 1879 |
Tan
explains that the traditional relationship between the Johor ruler and the
Chinese immigrant community was firmly established when a plot of land was
awarded to the Chinese to build their place of worship at Jalan Trus.
This
temple, uniquely named Johor Gu Miao
or Johor Old Temple, united the five main Chinese dialect groups and bears the
name of the state in honour of the Johor ruler.
As
part of the temple’s annual Chingay tradition, each kangchu would send two
Chinese lanterns by tongkang (small
boat), to the temple to pray for good harvests.
These
paper lanterns, painted with pepper and gambier motifs and the kangchu’s name,
would be paraded in the annual procession. This Chingay tradition continues to
this day as Johor uniquely ends its annual lunar new year celebrations with
this grand parade on the 21st day of the first lunar month.
From a rare
document, Tan Chai Puan translated records of a conversation between China’s
first Ambassador to the UK, Guo Songtao and Maharaja Abu Bakar on 12 March 1879,
when they met in Singapore, then part of the Johor Empire.
The
ambassador’s comments reflected Johor’s cordial relationship with the Chinese
emperor and his pleasure at how Johor has made the Chinese farmers welcome
here.
UTM Associate Professor Dr Hj Kassim Thukiman |
In
his presentation, Associate Professor Dr Hj Kassim echoed some of Tan’s points,
in particular on how the Johor ruler acknowledged the Chinese tradition of
ancestor worship, where he not only presented land for their temple but also
for their cemetery.
When
Kassim discussed the surat sungai, he
highlighted that along with this official document, the Johor Government
awarded the kangchu with two lengths of cane (rotan) and a spear as symbols of power to be kept in the kangchu’s
home!
While
we are familiar with the sight of the pepper and gambier motif that decorates
lamp-posts and public places, Kassim showed a photo to give non-Muslims a
glimpse of how this same motif is also used on the carpet design inside Johor
mosques!
His
research proved that the kangchu system was not monopolized by the Chinese as
the Javanese were also encouraged to cultivate pepper and gambier in Parit Jawa
and Padang in Muar.
Besides
the Chinese and Javanese, Johor’s economy was also driven by the Arabs in the
cultivation of land awarded to the Syed Mohammad Al-Sagoff family under the
Kukup Land Concession.
From
the well-researched presentations by Tan and Kassim, I’m grateful for the new
knowledge and cannot help but feel saturated by a wealth of information on our
shared heritage in pepper and gambier.
A version of this was published in the May 2018 issue of The Iskandarian.
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